58. But Lynceus the Samian, the friend of Theophrastus, was acquainted with the use of paunches when eaten with Cyrenaic sauce. And accordingly, writing an account of the Banquet of Ptolemy, he says:--"A certain paunch having been brought round in vinegar and sauce." Antiphanes, too, mentions this sauce in his Unhappy Lovers, speaking of Cyrene-- I sail back to the self-same harbour whence We previously were torn; and bid farewell To all my horses, friends, and assafœtida, And two horse chariots, and to cabbages, And single-horses, and to salads green, And fevers, and rich sauces. And how much better a paunch of a castrated animal is, Hipparchus, who wrote the book called The Ægyptian Iliad, tells us in the following words-- But above all I do delight in dishes Of paunches and of tripe from gelded beasts, And love a fragrant pig within the oven. And Sopater says in his Hippolytus-- But like a beauteous paunch of gelded pig Well boil'd and white, and basted with rich cheese. And in his Physiologus he says-- 'Tis not a well boil'd slice of paunch of pig Holding within a sharp and biting gravy. And in his Silphæ he says-- That you may eat a slice of boil'd pig's paunch, Dipping it in a bitter sauce of rue. 59. But the ancients were not acquainted with the fashion of bringing on paunches, or lettuces, or anything of the sort, before dinner, as is done now. At all events Archestratus, the inventor of made dishes, as he calls himself, says that pledges in drinking, and the use of ointments, are introduced after supper--