And at the same time dress the young of one Fat goose (σιτευτοῦ χῆνος), and let him too be roasted thoroughly. But we have a right now, O Ulpian, to expect you to tell us, you who question everybody about everything, where this very costly dish of the livers of geese has been mentioned by any ancient writer. For Cratinus is a witness that they were acquainted with people whose business it was to feed geese, in his Dionysalexander, where he says— Geese-feeders, cow-herds . . . . And Homer uses the word χὴν in both the masculine and feminine gender; for he says— Αἰετὸς ἀργὴν χῆνα φέρων—An eagle carrying off a lazy goose. And again he says— And as he seized a fine home-fatten'd goose (χῆνα ἀτιταλλομένην). And in another place he says— I've twenty geese, fond of the lucid stream, Who in my house eat wheat, and fatten fast. And Eupolis mentions the livers of geese (and they are thought an excessive delicacy at Rome), in his Women Selling Garlands, where he says— If you have not a goose's liver or heart. 33. There were also heads of pigs split in half and served up as a dish. And this dish is mentioned by Crobylus, in his Son falsely held to be Supposititious— There came in half a head of a young pig, A tender dish; and I did stick to it So close, by Jove, that I left none of it. [Sidenote: THE USE OF PARTICULAR WORDS.] After these things there was served up a haricot, called κρεωκάκκαβος. And this dish consists of meat chopped up with blood and fat, in a sauce richly sweetened; and Aristophanes the Grammarian says that it was the Achæans who gave this name to the dish. But Anticlides, in the seventy-eighth book of his Returns, says, "Once when there was a design on the part of the Erythreans to put the Chians to death by treachery at a banquet, one of them having learnt what was intended to be done, said— O Chians, wondrous is the insolence Which now has seized the Erythreans' hearts. Flee when you've done your pork—don't wait for beef. And Aristomenes, in his Jugglers, makes mention in the following terms of boiled meat, which he calls ἀναβραστὰ κρέα— * * * * * They used also to eat the testicles of animals, which they called νέφροι.—Philippodes, in his Renovation, speaking of the gluttony of Gnathæna the courtesan, says— Then, after all these things, a slave came in, Bearing a large dish full of testicles; And all the rest of the girls made prudish faces, But fair Gnathæna, that undoer of men, Laughed, and said, "Capital things are testicles, I swear by Ceres." So she took a pair And ate them up: so that the guests around Fell back upon their chairs from laughing greatly.