_A._ The wretch on whom you lavish so much praise, I swear, by all the gods, but ill deserves it— The true professor of the art should strive To gratify the taste of every guest; For if he merely furnishes the table, Sees all the dishes properly disposed, And thinks, having done this, he has discharged His office, he's mistaken, and deserves To be consider'd only as a drudge, A kitchen-drudge, without or art or skill, And differs widely from a cook indeed, A master of his trade.—He bears the name Of General, 'tis true, who heads the army; But he whose comprehensive mind surveys The whole, who knows to turn each circumstance Of time, and place, and action, to advantage,— Foresees what difficulties may occur, And how to conquer them,—this is the man Who should be call'd the general; the other The mere conductor of the troops, no more: So in our art it is an easy thing To boil, to roast, to stew, to fricassee, To blow the bellows, or to stir the fire; But a professor of the art regards The time, the place, th' inviter, and the guest; And when the market is well stored with fish, Knows to select, and to prefer such only As are in proper season, and, in short, Omits no knowledge that may justly lead To the perfection of his art. 'Tis true, Archestratus has written on the subject, And is allow'd by many to have left Most choice receipts, and rare inventions Useful and pleasing; yet in many things He was profoundly ignorant, and speaks Upon report, without substantial proof Or knowledge of his own. We must not trust, Nor give our faith to loose conjectures thus; For in our art we only can depend On actual practice and experiment. Having no fix'd and settled laws by which We may be govern'd, we must frame our own, As time and opportunity may serve, Which if we do not well improve, the art Itself must suffer by our negligence. _B._ You are indeed a most renown'd professor; But still you have omitted to point out The properties of that most skilful cook Who furnish'd splendid feasts with so much ease. _A._ Give but the word, and you shall see me dress A _thrion_ in such style! and other dainties To furnish out a full and rich repast, That you may easily conceive the rest; Nay, you will think yourself in Attica, From the sweet fragrance, and delicious taste; And then the whole so various, and well-dress'd, You shall be puzzled where to fix your choice, From the stored viands of so rich a board.—ANON. * * * * * MNESIMACHUS. (Book x. § 18, p. 663.)