The Desultory Man: Collection of Ancient and Modern British Novels and Romances. Vol. CXLVII.James, G. P. R. (George Payne Rainsford)
General
The Desultory Man: Collection of Ancient and Modern British Novels and Romances. Vol. CXLVII.
James, G. P. R. (George Payne Rainsford)
Fiction
The general appearance of Rouen is dull, but there is an air of
antiquity about it which I have often found wanting as a
characteristic in places considerably older than this. One of the
first things which attracted our notice was the beauty of the women:
certainly never did I see such a number of pretty faces, as there are
here framed and glazed at shop windows, with their large dark eyes
glancing at us like diamonds as we pass by. But this is no subject for
you, Sir Stoic; old mouldering monuments, and crumbling ruins, will
better suit your musty, antiquarian soul. You would revel were you
with us here. This place is one great museum of ancient buildings:
every thing smacks of old days; and memory has plenty of occupation in
raking up all the histories that each object recall.
I have seen good paintings of the Cathedral as it appeared some years
ago, before the spire was burnt; and though the people lament very
much its fall, I cannot say that I think the building has lost by the
accident. The spire was light and elegant certainly, but it did not
seem to me to harmonize well with the rest of the church. I believe
that we wore out the patience of our valet-de-place, staying nearly
three hours to examine every part of it, and admiring and re-admiring
the beautiful combinations which the light Gothic arches present at
every step you take along the aisles. Round some of the principal
columns there is a curious sort of open balcony, which I do not
remember to have seen any where else, and which has a very pleasing
effect.
After remaining so long in the interior we mounted the tower, and
proceeding through a little door which led to the outside, found
ourselves amongst all the grotesque figures with which our good Norman
ancestors ornamented their churches. There were monkeys, and bears,
and parrots, and dragons, and devils, and saints; all pellmell,
jostling against each other, without any respect for persons.
It was singular to remark, that the iconoclastic spirit of the French
revolution had found out the statues of the saints and martyrs even up
here, and chopped their heads off without mercy, leaving the devils as
the proper images of the spirit of the time. It certainly was the most
ridiculous fury that ever seized a mad nation, to think of beheading
blocks of marble. When the sans-culottes entered the town of Nancy in
Alsace, they found, amongst other things, the statues of Apollo and
the nine muses; these they immediately christened the King and the
royal family, and proceeded to guillotine them on the spot. The busts
of Voltaire and Rousseau were about to undergo the same fate, but the
librarian of the town saved them, by announcing them as the very
patriarchs and apostles of the revolution.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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