Perfumes were much in fashion, and Stubbes’ _Anatomy_ has a great
deal to say on the subject. We hear of perfumed jerkins in Marston’s
_Malcontent_ (_Wks._ 1. 314) and in _Cynthia’s Revels_ (_Wks._ 2.
325). Spanish perfume for gloves is spoken of in the latter play
(p. 328) and in the _Alchemist_ (_Wks._ 4. 131) ‘your Spanish
titillation in a glove’ is declared to be the best perfume.
=4. 4. 77, 8 The Guardo-duennas, such a little old man,=
=As this.= Minsheu gives the definition: ‘Escudero, m. An
Esquire, a Seruingman that waits on a Ladie or Gentlewoman,
in Spaine neuer but old men and gray beards.’
=4. 4. 81 flat spred, as an Vmbrella.= The umbrella of the
seventeenth century seems to have been used exclusively to protect
the face from the sun. Blount, _Glossographia_, 1670, gives:
‘_Umbrello_ (Ital. Ombrella), a fashion of round and broad Fans,
wherewith the Indians (and from them our great ones) preserve
themselves from the heat of the sun or fire; and hence any little
shadow, Fan, or other thing wherewith women guard their faces from
the sun.’
It was apparently not in use in England when Coryat published his
_Crudities_, which contains the following description (1. 135): ‘Also
many of them doe carry other fine things of a far greater price, that
will cost at the least a duckat, which they commonly call in the
Italian tongue _vmbrellaes_, that is, things that minister shadow
unto them for shelter against the scorching heate of the sunne. These
are made of leather something answerable to the forme of a little
cannopy, & hooped in the inside with diuers little wooden hoopes that
extend the _vmbrella_ in a pretty large compasse.’
‘As a defense from rain or snow it was not used in western
Europe till early in the eighteenth century.’--_CD._
=4. 4. 82 Her hoope.= A form of the farthingale (fr.
Sp. _Verdugal_) was worn in France, Spain, and Italy, and
in England as early as 1545. It gradually increased in size,
and Elizabeth’s farthingale was enormous. The aptness of the
comparison can be appreciated by reading Coryat’s description of
the umbrella above.
=4. 4. 87 An Escudero.= See note 4. 4. 77, 8.
=4. 4. 97 If no body should loue mee, but my poore
husband.= Cf. _Poetaster_, _Wks._ 2. 444: ‘Methinks a
body’s husband does not so well at court; a body’s friend,
or so--but, husband! ’tis like your clog to your marmoset,’ etc.
=4. 4. 134 your Gentleman-vsher.= ‘Gentleman-Usher.
Originally a state-officer, attendant upon queens, and
other persons of high rank, as, in Henry VIII, Griffith is
gentleman-usher to Queen Catherine; afterwards a private
affectation of state, assumed by persons of distinction, or
those who pretended to be so, and particularly ladies. He
was then only a sort of upper servant, out of livery, whose
office was to hand his lady to her coach, and to walk before
her bare-headed, though in later times she leaned upon his
arm.’--Nares.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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