France -- Description and travel; France -- Social life and customs
_August 11th._--After breakfast we went into the market, where we saw
quite as curious figures as we had expected. Some of the caps had
lappets like butterflies' wings, and large bunches of hair turned up
behind. We saw some of the hair hanging at a shop-door: it was coarse
like horse-hair. A number of the people were dressed in black. We saw
three women, like a mother and her daughters, coming in to market
with baskets on their arms. They had on black gowns, aprons, and
handkerchiefs; caps, the lappets of which blew out with the wind and
showed a great bunch of hair; and gold ornaments about their necks.
There was one woman selling fruit who had on a very curious cap: the
frame was made of pasteboard, and the front of it covered with gold,
silver, spangles, tinsel, etc.; round the top there was a long piece of
muslin which hung almost to the ground. The women we saw in the market
had their lappets pinned up. Some of the old women had on cotton caps.
We passed several shops (in our way to the market) full of little ivory
ships and figures beautifully cut. We walked up to the castle, from
which we saw the whole of the town. We afterwards went on the cliffs
on the outside of the castle, from which we had a view of the sea with
several boats on it. A woman came and spoke to us about a house which
she had to let; she spoke very bad French: she called _cinquante_
'_shinquante_.' I could hardly understand the Dieppe people; they spoke
so much through their noses.[42] We wanted to buy a cap and a pair
of sabots. We went into two or three shops before we could get a cap
to our mind; we at last got a leno cap and an under cap to wear with
it, such as the women in black wore, which was the most common kind.
They told us that a gilt cap when new cost 20 francs. Our sabots cost
sixpence: the old woman thought we intended to wear them, and said we
ought to have a nicer kind. We asked several people the way to the
Church of St. Remi: the people of Dieppe seemed to have a disagreeable
manner. The Church of St. Remi is not beautiful. In one of the little
chapels there was a small figure of the Virgin Mary with a child in
her arms; her petticoats were painted scarlet, and she had on a lace
veil, a crown, and a bunch of flowers in her hand. We went to see the
Church of St. Jacques. There is a very pretty purple wheel-window over
the organ; and in a kind of recess in the wall there were a great many
figures holding a sheet covered with real flowers: before which there
were twenty-nine candles burning; several people came and stuck in a
candle. We looked into several of the little chapels: in one there was
a virgin, in another a ship, in another some filigree work in frames.
We dined at the table d'hôte. There were five English gentlemen. We
could not sail this evening, as the wind blew into the harbour; so
we went to buy pears to take in the ship next day. While we were
buying the pears we observed a number of children standing about and
looking at the fruit.
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