The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
Egueshi related to us the cruelties committed by the Mussulmans during
that siege. He pointed out a Turkish woman who had cut the throats of
many wounded Russian soldiers, thus avenging herself for the death of
her husband on the battle field. The enormous tomb has been done up with
stones, and a big wooden cross is fixed in the middle.
During the Requiem, at which I assisted on horseback, all the soldiers
knelt down and prayed fervently for their comrades, the brave warriors
who are sleeping their eternal sleep in this Mussulman ground.
After dinner we arranged an expedition to the monastery of
Loussavoritch-Vank, situated about six miles outside the town. This
monastery, built on the top of a high mountain and surrounded by a
stone-wall, resembles a castle of the middle-ages. Three sides of this
cloister are perpendicular and the fourth one, by which one mounts, is
planted with a row of fine trees, an agreeable contrast to the rocky
scenery all around. Two monks composed the whole establishment; one of
them, at our approach, began to toll a bell, whilst his companion came
out to meet us, holding a big silver cross in his hand. He led us into
the church, where he performed a Te Deum and made us descend afterwards
into a dark dungeon where, according to a legend, Saint-Gregory, the
propagator of Christianity, had taken refuge during the persecution of
the Christians. We also visited an antique underground church, making
our way to it by narrow dark passages. I drew a long breath when I found
myself in the open air once more. On our way home we were overtaken by
a terrible thunderstorm, which didn’t last long, but was followed by a
dreadful shower of rain. We put on mackintoshes with caps, which made us
look like highwaymen, but we all got a thorough drenching, nevertheless.
May 27th.—The snow in the mountains transforms itself when thawing into
big clouds, and it pours with rain nearly every day. The top of the
“Palantek” is a capital weather-prophet; when there are no clouds on the
summit, even if the sky is heavy all around, it will not rain that day,
and vice versa. From our sitting-room one can watch the mountains, and
this barometer is of great use to us during our rides.
There was an awful storm last night; the wind shook our house to its very
foundation, it seemed as though it must be caught up and hurled headlong.
I’ve never seen such dazzling flashes of lightning before, nor heard
such formidable thunderbolts reverberating loudly with an echo in the
mountains. I was in a terrible fright all the time lest the flag-staff,
put on the top of our roof, would be struck by lightning. The rain came
in through the ceilings; I can well imagine what was taking place in the
other houses in Erzeroum which had no clay roofs like ours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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