The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
We had hardly left the harbour when the steamer began to bounce and to
pick its way from one wave to another, giving us the impression of a
swing. I proved to be a miserable sailor and went below at once and put
myself into the hands of the stewardess, who quickly placed a basin under
my very nose. I lay prostrate on a sofa in the ladies’ saloon; my head
was very bad and everything went round. What miserable creatures all my
cabin companions were! woefully sick all of them. Sergy, much less liable
to sea-sickness, remained on deck all the time. He came to see how I was
and said I had better come up on deck, but I was too deadly ill even to
answer him.
It took us six hours to get to Dieppe. We looked ghostly when we landed
on the pier, where a large crowd had assembled to see the passengers
fresh from a rough channel passage. I was so happy to be on dry land. I
would rather die than endure another half hour of sickness. We saw on the
pier Mme. Kethoudoff, one of our Moscow friends, a French lady married
to an Armenian. That couple was compelled to strictly fulfil the French
proverb, _La parole est d’argent et le silence est d’or_, (speech is
silver and silence is gold) as Mr. Kethoudoff does not speak a word of
French, and his spouse completely ignores the Armenian language. Mme.
Kethoudoff had settled at Dieppe for good. She received us with open arms
when we stepped on shore, and carried us away to her own house, situated
on the “Quai des Écluses.”
I had not yet recovered from our rough passage and felt all the time
as if the ground tottered under me. I tried not to think about the
treacherous sea but couldn’t, for the ocean was there, just in front of
our windows, in all its vastness.
Mme. Kethoudoff had at dinner that day the _Vicaire du Pollet_, a rosy
and plump curate. This gossip-loving priest was a great favourite among
his lady parishioners, to whom he was very fond of confiding little bits
of scandal.
We took our after-dinner coffee on the balcony and saw the swing bridge
giving passage to a Spanish vessel which was leaving the harbour. At
nine o’clock in the evening a retreat was sounded from the neighbouring
barracks. At the first beat of the drum the soldiers hastened up to their
quarters from all parts of the town.
In spite of Mme. Kethoudoff’s hospitality, we moved that same night to
the Hôtel des Étrangers, where we shall feel ourselves more at home and
independent.
I lay in bed late next morning. After breakfast we went for a walk on
the beach; the weather was rainy and the sea uniformly grey, nothing but
furious waves around us. The monotony of this sea-shore unnerved me. We
shall probably not make a long stay here. Neither is the bathing very
agreeable at Dieppe; it only takes place at the hours of low water, and
the bottom of the sea is so rough and stony that the bathers are obliged
to put on sandals with very thick soles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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