The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
We put up at the Hôtel de la Croix-Blanche, facing the chain of the Alps,
with “Mont Blanc” showing its snowy cone. On the public square, just
opposite the hotel, stands an immense telescope. We took a look through
it and saw the top of “Mont Blanc,” brilliant with sunshine. With the
naked eye we could dimly make out a house standing by the side of the
great glacier and with the telescope we could see a caravan of eleven
persons making the great ascent, surrounded by the eternal snows. I had
a great wish to follow their example and go up the “Mont Blanc” to enjoy
one of the most famous views in the Alps. The weather is most favourable
for the ascent just now, and we decided to start on our “Mont Blanc”
expedition on the following day. We got up early and equipped ourselves
for the expedition, putting on proper mountaineering large nailed boots
with heavy soles. Before starting we went through a hurried breakfast in
the dining-room, in the company of a French traveller and an individual
wearing a blue blouse, very dirty-looking and with a flavour of the
stable about him. He appeared to be the charioteer who had brought that
traveller from Martigny, and who had his driver at the same table with
him. It was horrible to see how that creature half swallowed his knife
when he ate. He was very familiar with his passenger and conversed
with him as with an equal. Oh, republic! It was time to start on our
thrilling mountain expedition. Our mules were led up. As our guide swung
me awkwardly into the saddle, my mule “Nini” made a sudden start and I
went sprawling full length on the ground. It was an excellent beginning!
We followed a narrow track leading to the mountain “Montauvert.” The road
now threatened to dwindle into a goat-path. There were only a few inches
to spare on each side of the road-shelf. We were surrounded by hideous
desolation; a more wild spot it would have been difficult to discover.
Everywhere towered the great cliffs, destitute of tree and herbage. The
cold increased the higher we got. By and by we seemed to have passed
beyond the inhabited zone. The beautiful snows of the Alps towered in all
their glory in front of us. An eagle was flying low overhead. Presently
we came to the path in the hills which must be ascended on foot. We
retained here a special guide with an alpenstock in his hand, an ice-axe
in his belt and a coil of rope over one shoulder, and proceeded to the
“Mer de Glace.” We passed before a group of huge dogs lying beside a
cannon which was fired as usual when the passage of the “Mont Blanc” is
about to be undertaken. The sound of the gun resounded a long time like a
echo in the mountains. The climb was excessively fatiguing. We were roped
to our guide and moved in single file; the guide, nimble as a goat, went
in front, I next and Sergy behind. We drove our alpenstocks in the snow,
in order to support ourselves; the guide cut steps with his ice-axe with
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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