The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
On our way back to the hotel we
heard a funeral chant, and next moment appeared a procession of monks,
their faces covered and only their eyes seen, and their hands hidden in
their full sleeves, walking two and two.
The following day at dinner we saw again the French _cocotte_ and her
bronzed cavaliers, who this time appeared insensible to her charms, their
temperature having fallen to below zero. Her fickle lovers had only
monosyllables at her disposal. They took no notice of her and ate their
dinner.
The principal theatres of Milan are closed in summer, except the “Dal
Verme,” where we went to see a new play. The theatre is awfully dirty,
the curtain all in holes and the chair-backs wear the trace of the
spectators’ feet. The performers were all second-rate and the play rather
boring.
This night again we were roasted alive. It is impossible to remain longer
in this furnace, and we decided to go on to the Italian Lakes to look
out for a comfortable boarding-house where I could put up during the
manœuvres. The morning, as if on purpose, was comparatively fresh, the
sky overclouded and the rain coming on; still we did not put off our
journey and took the first train to Como. This town, with its Gothic
cathedral, is very pretty. It is situated on Lake Como and surrounded
by verdant mountains. Immediately on arriving, we took a carriage
to Cernobbio, a little place where you take the boat to Bellaggio.
The trip only occupies twenty minutes. Our driver pulled up at the
entrance door of “Villa D’Este,” a beautiful old palace transformed
into a large palatial hotel, standing in a garden of orange and lemon
trees. The house had once been the residence of Napoleon Bonaparte.
The dining-room is decorated with rich tapestries incrusted with the
letter “N” in gold, surmounted by the Imperial crown. In the library
we saw a large veiled figure, the statue of “Love and Psychè,” covered
with gauze in order not to shock the prude spinster ladies of blameless
morals dwelling in the hotel. After a hasty luncheon, we came out upon
the beach, and I sat down to wait for the boat. I was that day in one
of my nasty moods, in the humour to pick a quarrel with anyone, and
Sergy’s imperturbable good-temper was a source of greater irritation
to me. Poking an inoffensive pebble viciously with my umbrella, I said
some detestable things to Sergy and was altogether horrid. Fearing lest
I should say too much, I made myself the solemn vow not to pronounce
one single word until I went to bed that night. And there we sat, side
by side, with faces apart, in gloomy silence, when suddenly the idea
struck Sergy to establish me at Cernobbio, whilst he would attend the
manœuvres. He sat thinking for a while, then rose and strolled down by
himself, investigating the neighbourhood to try and find some hotel where
he wanted me to spend about three weeks. He soon came back to tell me
that he had found out a nice boarding-house kept by a German lady, Frau
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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