The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
We devoted the whole of the next day to Pompeii, the long-buried city
at the foot of the great destroyer. Nothing but desolation and silence
around! Walking amid the wrecks, the mystery of the past took possession
of us and the busy lives which animated formerly the deserted town,
rose before us. The cinder-choked streets have preserved their ancient
denominations. The buildings remind me of those of Erzeroum, with a
fountain in the middle of the inner court. The frescoed walls have kept
their original colour, and the sign-boards over the houses and the
indecent bas-reliefs (reminiscences of not over pure-minded antiquity)
are perfectly intact. Here is the grand _Basilique_ the symbol of an
ancient disappeared civilisation and the pagan temples of Venus, Mercury
and Jupiter. A little further, in the quarter of the Gladiators, is the
_Forum_ with the immense tribune in which the people assembled for all
sorts of meetings. In a separate museum curious remains of past ages are
gathered: artistically worked jewels, mosaics and petrified corpses in
almost as fine condition as 1800 years ago in 79 A.D. There is a young
woman lying prostrate on the marble floor; the position of the hands
indicate that she had instinctively tried to protect her face from the
hot ashes when the death-storm broke and Vesuvius blotted out Pompeii.
We saw objects just dug up: coins, vases and pottery. We passed before
bars which looked as if they had just been freshly painted, where wine
had been sold. Here are loaves of bread lying on the counter of a baker’s
shop, transformed into stone and looking as if they had just come out
of the oven. Before the shop, a petrified dog, curled up, seems to be
sleeping.
Our old cicerone, who had lived all his life at the foot of the great
mountain, had worked as guide to Pompeii for fifty-five years. He told us
that there were presently forty guides at Pompeii. When we asked if it
wasn’t dangerous for him to live so near to the volcano, the old guide
replied, with pride, that they were all of them sons of Vesuvius, and had
no need, therefore, to dread it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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