The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
are lost,” I said to myself trembling all over.
Following the command of our guides we fell flat on our faces, at once.
All this happened in the space of a second. A smell of burning wool
spread around us. It was my dress which had caught fire. Next moment we
got up hurriedly and fled in terror to the other end of the cone, as
the direction these rivulets of liquid fire take, depends entirely on
the wind. By some miracle nobody was hurt. We have had evidently a very
narrow escape of our lives. We were now on our way back to the Funicular
Railway. Oh! that descent! We slid down as on skates and reached the
Funicular Station in shoes almost entirely without soles.
The next day we went to visit the “Certosa,” an ancient grey abbey
perched on a high rock, a veritable eagle’s nest. Only six monks are left
now in the monastery, to make the famous “Certosa liqueur.” They gather
the herbs in the mountains and keep the recipe of their liqueur as a
great secret. The convent is now converted into a Museum. Among other
curiosities we were shown a shallop in which Charles the Tenth had landed
in Spain. Looking out from the terrace the whole city of Naples lay
revealed; only the distant splashing of the sea below was heard.
A terrible calamity has befallen the Island of Ischia. The little town of
Casamicciola, destroyed by a recent tremendous earthquake, is nothing but
a heap of deplorable ruins. Through the awful cataclysm the inhabitants
are deprived of home and bread. In pursuit of strong sensations we wanted
to visit these ruins and embarked on a small steamer which plied from
the Bay of Naples to Ischia. It takes only two hours to cross. There was
not a breath of air and the sea looked like a polished mirror. Whilst we
gazed at the frolics of the dolphins from deck, we passed a man-of-war
that had cast anchor in the Bay, and did not remark that it was a Russian
cruiser. A young chap who sold photographs on board, offered to show
us the ruins of Casamicciola. He could murder enough French to be our
interpreter and we accepted his offer. He told us that he had lost both
his parents and all his belongings in the recent earthquake; the only
object he had found amongst the ruins was his watch. The poor boy had
remained several hours unconscious under the ruins and was just out of
hospital. On approaching Ischia, we stopped before what had formerly
been Casamicciola, a desolate black desert now. The earthquake had in a
few moments changed the prosperous little town into a ruin. Hundreds and
hundreds of homes had entirely gone. Many people were buried beneath the
fallen houses. About two hundred corpses remained under the ruins and
a terrible smell came forth. In fear of infection the inhabitants are
forbidden to dig out the corpses. Another slight earthquake took place
the other day: a rock tumbled down, destroying the remaining houses, and
large crevices have been formed in the mountains all around. The whole
population is in terrible distress.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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