The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
The next day we had gone coaching again. This time I had the front
seat of the coach. My neighbour was an elegant young man who had the
manner and the bearing of a Prince of the blood Royal. Having taken the
day before a Royal Prince for a colonist, Sergy this time promoted my
neighbour to the post of State Minister at least, and I felt sure he
was no less a person than a Royalty travelling incognito. At a stoppage
one of the horses had cast a shoe, and one can easily imagine how we
felt when my aristocratic neighbour began to shoe the horse—he was a
blacksmith! Our driver put into good spirits by frequent sips taken
at the stoppages, seemed to have completely forgotten his business.
He drove recklessly, taking the corners in a way that made me gasp; I
had to hold fast to the seat not to be thrown out of the omnibus at
every turn. I couldn’t bear it any longer and begged our driver to go
slower, but it only made him rush down the inclines at the speed of
an express train, turning in the same time his back to the horses and
chatting with the passengers. He boasted of how well he could manage
his long whip, and waving it right and left, he caught the rake of a
villager who was passing on the road. Luckily the idea didn’t come to
our driver to lift the man like a spilikin in the air. Half-way on we
stopped at Ventnor, a resort for consumptive patients, to give a rest
to the horses. We saw numerous invalids drawn through the streets in
their bath-chairs. We continued our way by an avenue of trees bending
over and forming a roof, and towards four o’clock we rattled into the
quiet village of Carisbrooke, and tore like a hurricane through the
narrow streets, scattering the crowd of dogs and hens before us. The
village with its white cottages and grass growing liberally out of the
broken pavement, looked very cosy. We saw a group of women all down on
their knees cheerfully doing their washing in the stream, laughing and
chatting together, and village children who were playing at soldiers
near a puddle where the ducks were quacking. The foaming horses came to
a stop before the Red Lion Inn, and everyone descended. We had dinner
at the inn, consisting of soup tasting like dish-water, and slices of
mutton not thicker than a sheet of paper, and they charged us five
shillings for the meagre repast! A two hours’ halt gave us time to visit
the picturesque ruins of old Carisbrooke Castle, after which we flung
ourselves with satisfaction upon the grass under a stack of hay, and
had for company an ancient white cart-horse who chewed his bunch of hay
under an old ash tree. We felt quite bucolic, it was so cool and nice
here, and the new-mown hay smelt so sweetly. Meanwhile our coachman had
put out his horses and gone to lie down. When we returned to the inn we
found him stretched full length on the grass under the shade of a big
tree, his face covered with his hat, sleeping the sleep of the just. The
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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