The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
Biarritz is built on a rock. Over trenches excavated by the ocean
picturesque bridges are thrown. The top part of the town consists of
splendid hotels and lovely villas which stretch towards Bayonne and the
road to Spain. It is from Biarritz that Christopher Columbus sailed
to discover America. This queen of southern strands is very gay and
fashionable. There are three beaches: La Grande Plage has a splendid
casino; Port-Vieux, incased between rocks and is well sheltered against
the assault of the big billows, where children and invalids bathe in
preference. Above Port-Vieux a tunnel is cut through the rock for
pedestrians, and on the summit of the rock rises the statue of the
Virgin, held in great veneration by the seamen; near it stands a big
cross and a pole with an alarm-bell to signal shipwrecks. A bridge is
thrown over the dyke under which the ocean roars furiously producing
sounds like continual cannon-shots. It is on the third beach, La côte
des Basques, that the waves are the strongest. On Sundays the villagers
from round about assemble here, dressed in their half Spanish costumes,
to dance sprightly mouchachas and the fandangos, with the accompaniment
of castanets and tambourines. Having danced to their hearts’ content,
they undress completely, and enter the water in a long file, holding each
other by the hand, men and women pêle-mêle; after the waves have drenched
them thoroughly, they come out and bake themselves on the sand for a
while.
We took our bath every morning on the “Grande Plage,” where the waves
reached only to the knees, but they were so monstrously long that they
splashed us from head to foot, and pushed us far away from the shore.
One morning whilst my husband was taking his bath and I was merely
present in the character of looker-on, someone called him in Russian
by his name. Sergy turned round and saw Colonel Scalon, an aide-de-camp
of the Grand Duke Michael. “What an unexpected surprise! How do you
do, Colonel?” he exclaimed. “Thank you, I⸺” but at that same moment a
gigantic billow had flung them apart without giving time to the Colonel
to end his phrase.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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