The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
Thanks to the Exhibition in Copenhagen, all the hotels and
boarding-houses were full, and it was with great difficulty that we
succeeded in finding a shelter in a private house. By a winding staircase
we were ushered into a dark, low room, looking into a grim back-yard, and
scantily furnished with two beds, a few cane, inhospitable-looking chairs
and a sofa losing its horse-hair through wide gaping wounds. Feeling very
tired and sleepy, I lay down to rest a bit, but sprang up hastily, for
the bed was abominable, the mattress as hard as stone and the pillows so
thin that they could easily be folded in two. To crown all, behind the
wall our landlady’s children were shrieking with all their might. It was
impossible to go to sleep, and we decided to go and take the train to
Tivoli and explore the Exhibition, with its chief attraction, an enormous
elevator representing a huge bottle of beer with a magnificent bird’s-eye
view of Copenhagen. We had dinner in a restaurant on board a ship of
the middle-ages, and were brought in a barge with a three-storied poop
to this curious establishment. The waiters were dressed in the costume
of sailors belonging to that long past epoch, wearing broad-brimmed
Rembrandt hats.
On the next morning an old friend of ours, Mr. Stcherbatcheff, the first
Secretary of the Russian Embassy, came to see us. He was begged to wait
for me in a small tobacco-shop belonging to our hostess, in the next
house, while I finished dressing. Mr. Stcherbatcheff was horrified when
he saw our lodging, and said that he had an apartment ready for us in the
house where he dwelt, and we resolved to remove immediately to our new
apartment, looking out into the most fashionable and animated quarter
of the town, and furnished in showy fashion. It seemed palatial in
comparison with our miserable room.
During our stay in Copenhagen the anniversary of the ninth century of
the institution of Christianity in Russia was celebrated. Sergy went
to the Russian church to be present at the official Te Deum, and was
invited afterwards by our priest to take a cup of tea. On that same
afternoon we visited the Museum where we saw prodigious sculptures, the
work of Thorwaldsen, the famous Danish sculptor. After dinner we went by
train, in an open car, to Klampenberg, about an hour’s drive. A peasant
woman, returning from market sat opposite to us with a basket on her
knees, which contents appeared to be stinking fish. Our road ran along
the sea-coast and was sheltered by roses and creepers. A strong odour
of seaweed came over to us. When we arrived at Klampenberg we took a
carriage to drive within the precincts of the beautiful park, and chose
a coachman who could speak German. His comrades jeered at him and called
his horse _Eine alte Katze_, out of spite, of course.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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