The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
We went almost every day to the Exhibition and sacrificed a whole
afternoon to the French colonies: Tunis, Algiers, Dahomey and other
transmarine countries, all clustered together near the Trocadero. In
front of them were the cafés belonging to them. Here you could listen
to the different national airs, see the different national types and
costumes, and eat the different national foods.
The section named “Habillement des deux Sexes” is marvellous, with
Paquin’s and Worth’s most divine combinations. I did not know how our
purses were going to hold out. There was a dress I had been dying for,
and Sergy, dear man, made me a present of it immediately.
The “Palais des Machines,” a monstrous gallery full of machines, with
glass walls and roof, was very fatiguing to go through. Sergy took
great interest in all sorts of engines, and our guide bothered me with
his technical explanations of which I understood nothing. On the top
galleries a moving electric bridge, full of people, advanced towards us
from the opposite side of the gallery, moving very slowly in order to
permit the visitors to see all the machines at work. We were dying of
thirst, and entered the English Dairy to drink a glass of milk, after
which we visited the Cow-House, exhibiting superb animals, who stood in
comfortable stalls with new clean straw under their feet. Whilst I petted
a beautiful fat cow named “Every Inch a Queen,” a milkmaid appeared with
a stool and a pail and began to extract what the cow chose to give her.
Directly opposite the “Palais des Machines” is the “Vieux Paris.” To
visit it is to step back into the past. In the street La Huchette,
the houses, the shops, the citizens, everything, transports you to
the seventeenth century; the anachronism was ourselves in our modern
clothes, which did not harmonise with the picture. Soldiers with their
bands at the head, wearing white wigs, marched in the streets. On a
raised platform the Mandolinists of the Duc de Guise played pretty
gavottes and minuets. A few steps further the so-called “Sans-Chagrins”
(street singers), standing on a table, sang popular airs. Through an
open window we saw a dainty “Marquise” singing old-time love-ditties, to
the accompaniment of a smart “Marquis” wearing a white wig and buckled
shoes, who played a harpsichord. The illusion was complete, we had gone
back a hundred years to Louis XVI. time. In the Rue Sainte Antoine we
saw the exact copy of the church Sainte Marie, with a museum inside,
where you could see the atrocities of the French Revolution, represented
with horrid realism, and calculated to give even a strong man the
creeps. Soldiers wearing pig-tailed wigs bellowed: “Come and see the
execution of the Royal Family!” In dark alcoves different scenes of the
French Revolution were represented. We saw the wax figure of Robespierre
presiding at the Jacobin Club; of Charlotte Corday in the act of
murdering Marat, etc., etc.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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