The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
The mighty Pyramids seem to stand quite near to Cairo, and still it
takes an hour and a half to drive to them by a long avenue of great
trees with meeting branches, stately leafy veterans, whose thick tops,
forming a cool vault, prevented the sun from scorching us when we drove
on the Ismail Road that leads from Cairo to the Pyramids. We crossed an
iron bridge over the Nile, which, though at its fullest now, is not very
deep; a drove of buffaloes were crossing it easily. We passed through
the mud-built village of Sakhara, a small encampment with a cluster of
nomad tents, and saw a circle of Arab-Bedouins, cloaked and white hooded
forms, belonging to a nomad tribe, crouching over a fire and cooking
their dinner in the plain, under the scanty shade of palm-trees. Their
Sheikh, a very tall and dignified Arab, offered us a camel and a donkey
to go and see the Sphinx. Sergy mounted the camel and I had to condescend
to the donkey. We were followed by a band of Bedouins who offered us
their services as guides to the Pyramids. Our escort increased as we went
on; half-naked children ran after us begging baksheesh. Directly after
leaving the village we were in the Sahara, with no tree or habitation,
only the naked desert with rippling sandbanks. The landscape fatigued
the eye by its sand uniformly yellow and its sky uniformly blue. The
Pyramids, the greatest of all human monuments, bewildered us by their
size when we drove up to them, especially the Pyramid of Cheops, which
took a hundred thousand masons twenty-five years to build. The Pyramids
are of extreme antiquity, a thousand years before the Christian era. At
the time when Abraham undertook his journey to Egypt, the Pyramids had
already existed for several centuries back. As soon as a Pharaoh began
to reign, in the first place he had his mausoleum built in the form of
a Pyramid. Inside, rooms with alabaster walls are shown, and long high
galleries containing the huge granite sarcophaguses. We made the tour
of the great Pyramid of Cheops. Its blocks consist of a series of steep
stone steps. To go up these steps is like walking up a wall. The hard
African sun was shining fiercely and it was too hot to undertake the
ascent of the Pyramid; we were contented to contemplate its wonders
from the base. A young Bedouin proposed to show us a wonderful feat—his
ascent and descent of the Pyramid in nineteen minutes, but we refused to
witness that acrobatic performance and rode over the hot yellow sand of
the desert to the Sphinx. All around us the great plain extended to the
horizon. I was oppressed by the immense solitude. In the desert, in the
midst of the sand-ocean, the monstrous Sphinx, the colossus of the past
ages, keeps watch on the sands from nearly four thousand years before
the birth of Christ, sleeping his eternal and enigmatic sleep. How many
centuries have past, and this giant continues contemplating, with a
mysterious and condescending smile, the nothingness and instability of
the world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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