The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)Dukhovskaia, Varvara
General
The diary of a Russian lady : $b reminiscences of Barbara Doukhovskoy (née princesse Galitzine)
Dukhovskaia, Varvara
Russia -- Social life and customs; Voyages and travels
April 13th.—The Russian colony at Erzeroum decided to celebrate the
Easter-night ceremony with great pomp; a rather difficult thing to do in
this Mussulman country. An attempt was made to illuminate the streets
leading to the Greek cathedral, but the inhabitants hadn’t the slightest
idea how to do it, and it was our house only which was lighted with
lanterns taken from “mosques.” When my husband had put on his uniform and
red ribbon, we proceeded to church on horseback, in complete obscurity,
with a dozen Cossacks and zaptiehs to protect us. It is very sad to feel
oneself in a Mussulman country on this great Christian feast. Nothing
recalls to mind the customary animation of that holy night; the streets
are so dark and silent! On approaching the cathedral we saw a detachment
of Russian soldiers standing under arms. The church was illuminated _a
giorno_ and filled with officers, soldiers and Christian inhabitants,
the latter take off their fezzes now in church, which they didn’t dare
to do before the entry of the Russians into Erzeroum. In a corner of
the cathedral lay heaps of painted eggs and Easter-cakes brought by
our soldiers to be blessed. Cannons were fired; the first shot was at
midnight precisely. After mass, my husband invited all the Russian colony
to supper. Our guests left us only at five o’clock in the morning.
April 14th.—On waking this morning I heard men’s voices singing in
chorus “Christ is risen!” It was a group of Cossacks who had come to
congratulate us with Easter-Sunday. Later on, from ten o’clock, visitors
of different nationalities continued to arrive until dinner-time.
It is reported that the Turks circulate exaggerated rumours about the
pitiful state of our troops and say that the moment for revenge against
the Christians has come. What troublesome times we are living through,
good God!
The Mussulmans had the custom of firing guns through the whole night
during the eclipses of the moon, but my husband has forbidden this now,
in order not to frighten the Christians.
April 17th.—It is the birthday of our Emperor to-day. After a Te Deum
in the Greek cathedral, there was a great review of our troops on the
square; four military bands executed our national hymn, whilst our
soldiers acclaimed their sovereign enthusiastically. The square was
crowded with lookers-on. Egueshi caught the drift of a dialogue between
an Armenian and a Turk; the Turk announced, pointing to the citadel from
whence discharges were heard: “The Russians are unable,” said he, “to
frighten us with their cannon-shots, one sees directly that these cannons
are not Turkish ones for they make too little noise.”
“You are much mistaken,” broke in the Armenian. “They are precisely
Turkish cannons, and it is Maksoud Effendi who has procured the
gunpowder.”
“Ah! now I see the reason why we are able to hear these cannon-shots,
for if they were Russian guns, they would not be heard at all from the
citadel,” concluded the Osmanlie, not a bit disconcerted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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