The different modes of cultivating the pine-apple: From its first introduction into Europe to the late improvements of T.A. Knight, esq.Loudon, J. C. (John Claudius)
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The different modes of cultivating the pine-apple: From its first introduction into Europe to the late improvements of T.A. Knight, esq.
Loudon, J. C. (John Claudius)
Pineapple
Air he admits to the nursing-pits every good day. Even in hard frost,
when the sun shines, two or three of the lights should be slipped down,
to let the rarified air escape at top. After potting unrooted offsets,
he gives no air till the heat begin to rise in the bark-bed; but as the
plants indicate their having made roots, he gives air during sunshine,
so as to keep down the thermometer to 85° or 80°.
Suckers planted in summer he shifts or re-pots in the following March.
He says, “Let them be shaked out entirely; the balls be quite reduced;
the roots be trimmed of all straggling and decayed fibres; and let them
be replaced in the same, or in similar pots. The proper size of pots,
however, in which to put crowns and suckers struck last season, is about
four inches inside diameter at top, and six inches deep. A little clean
gravel should be laid at the bottom of each pot, in order to drain off
extra moisture; and this should be observed in the potting of
Pine-plants of all sorts. I have generally observed, that if the bark
heat be not violent, the plants will push very strong fibres into this
stratum of gravel, in which they seem to delight. I therefore generally
make it two inches thick in small pots, and three or four in larger
ones, less or more, according to their size. From the time I first
adopted this mode of potting, I hardly ever had an instance of an
unhealthy plant; and this very particular, together with that of keeping
the plants always in a mild bottom-heat, is of greater importance in the
culture of Pines, than all the other rules that have been given
respecting them, out of the ordinary way. The roots of Pines seem to
delight in gravel; and I have been careful to introduce it into the
mould for plants of all ages. I generally used small sea-gravel, in
which was a considerable proportion of shells, or chips of shells, with
other particles of a porous nature; and I have uniformly observed the
finest fibres cling to these, and often insinuate themselves through the
pores, or embrace the rougher particles. Therefore, if sea gravel can be
obtained, prefer it; and next, river gravel; but avoid earthy pit
gravel, and rather use sharp sand, or a mixture of pounded-stone, chips,
and brick-bats. The plants being re-potted, plunge them in the bark-bed
again, quite down to the rims of the pots, keeping them perfectly level.
Eight or nine inches from centre to centre will be distance sufficient.
When they are all placed, give a little aired water, to settle the earth
about their roots. This need not be repeated till the heat in the bed
rise to the pots, after which, as the plants will now begin to grow
freely, they must be watered at the root once in four or five days; and
they may have a dewing over head, from the fine rose of a watering-pot,
occasionally, if the weather be fine.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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