temperaments more easily catch a new language and a new tone of society.
Is it not fortunate for you that I am interrupted in these gossipings by
the order to march? Mary Anne has come to tell me that we are to start
in half an hour; and so, adieu till we meet at Spezia.
Spezia, Croce di Malta.
The little sketch that I send with this will give you some very faint
notion of this beautiful gulf, with which I have as yet seen nothing to
compare. This is indeed Italy. Sea, sky, foliage, balmy air, the soft
influences of an atmosphere perfumed with a thousand odors,--all breathe
of the glorious land.
The Garden--a little promenade for the townspeople, that stretches along
the beach--is one blaze of deep crimson flowers,--the blossom of the
San Giuseppe,--I know not the botanical name. The blue sea--and such a
blue!--mirrors every cliff and crag and castellated height with the most
minute distinctness. Tall lateen-sailed boats glide swiftly to and fro;
and lazy oxen of gigantic size drag rustling wagons of loaded vines
along, the ruddy juice staining the rich earth as they pass.
Como was beautiful; but there was--so to say--a kind of trim coquetry in
its beauty that did not please me. The villas, the gardens, the
terraced walks, the pillared temples, seemed all the creations of a
landscape-gardening spirit that eagerly profited by every accidental
advantage of ground, and every casual excellence of situation. Now, here
there is none of this. All that man has done here had been even
better left undone. It is in the jutting promontories of rock-crowned
olives,--the landlocked, silent bays, darkened by woody shores,--the
wild, profuse vegetation, where the myrtle, the cactus, and the arbutus
blend with the vine, the orange, and the fig,--the sea itself, heaving
as if oppressed with perfumed languor,--and the tall Apennines,
snow-capped, in the distance, but whiter still in the cliffs of pure
Carrara marble,--it is in these that Spezia maintains its glorious
superiority, and in these it is indeed unequalled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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