We left Carrara by a little mountain path to visit the Bagni di Lucca,
a summer place, which once, in its days of Rouge-et-Noir celebrity, was
greatly resorted to. The Principality of Lucca possessed at that period,
too, its own reigning duke, and had not been annexed to Tuscany. Like
all these small States, without trade or commerce, its resources were
mainly derived from the Court; and, consequently, the withdrawal of the
Sovereign was the death-blow to all prosperity. It would be quite beyond
me to speculate on the real advantages or disadvantages resulting from
this practice of absorption, but pronouncing merely from externals, I
should say that the small States are great sufferers. Nothing can
be sadder than the aspect of this little capital. Ruined palaces,
grass-grown streets, tenantless houses, and half-empty shops are seen
everywhere. Poverty--I might call it misery--on every hand. The various
arts and trades cultivated had been those required by, even called into
existence by, the wants of a Court. All the usages of the place had
been made to conform to its courtly life and existence, and now this was
gone, and all the "occupation" with it! You are not perhaps aware that
this same territory of Lucca supplies nearly all of that tribe of image
and organ men so well known, not only through Europe, but over the vast
continent of America. They are skilful modellers naturally, and work
really beautiful things in "terra cotta." They are a hardy mountain
race, and, like all "montagnards," have an equal love for enterprise and
an attachment to home. Thus they traverse every land and sea, they labor
for years long in far-away climes, they endure hardships and privations
of every kind, supported by the one thought of the day when they can
return home again, and when in some high-perched mountain village--some
"granuolo," or "bennabbia "--they can rest from wandering, and, seated
amidst their kith and kind, tell of the wondrous things they have seen
in their journeyings. It is not uncommon here, in spots the very wildest
and least visited, to find a volume in English or French on the shelf of
some humble cottage: now it is perhaps a print, or an engraving of
some English landscape,--a spot, doubtless, endeared by some especial
recollection,--and not unfrequently a bird from Mexico--a bright-winged
parrot from the Brazils--shows where the wanderer's footsteps have borne
him, and shows, too, how even there the thoughts of home had followed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account