My dear Bob,--Here we are going it, and in about the very "fastest"
place I ever set foot in. In any other city society seems to reserve
itself for evening and lamplight; but here, Bob, you make "running from
the start," and keep up the pace till you come in. In the morning there
's the club, with plenty of whist; all the gossip of the town,--and such
gossip too,--the real article, by Jove!--no shadowy innuendoes, no
vague and half-mystified hints of a flaw here or a crack there, but home
blows, my boy, with a smashed character or a ruined reputation at every
stroke. This is, however, only a breathing canter for what awaits you at
the Cascini,--a sort of "promenade," where all the people meet in
their carriages, and exchange confidences in scandal and invitations
to tea,--the Cascini being to the club what the ballet is to the opera.
After this, you have barely time to dress for dinner; which over, the
opera begins. There you pay visits from box to box; learn all that is
going on for the evening; hear where the prettiest women are going, and
where the smartest play will be found. Midnight arrives, and then--but
not before--the real life of Florence begins. The dear Contessa, that
never showed by daylight, at last appears in her _salon_; the charming
Marchesa, whose very head-dress is a study from Titian, and whose
dark-fringed eyes you think you recognize from the picture in "the
Pitti," at length sails in, to receive the humble homage of--what,
think you? a score of devoted worshippers, a band of chivalrous adorers?
Nothing of the kind, Bob: a dozen or so of young fellows, in all manner
of costumes, and all shapes of beards and moustaches; all smoking cigars
or cigarettes, talking, singing, laughing, thumping the piano, shouting
choruses, playing tricks with cards,--all manner of tomfoolery, in fact;
with a dash of enthusiasm in the nonsense that carries you along in
spite of yourself. The conversation--if one can dare to call it such--is
a wild chaos of turf-talk, politics, scandal, literature, buffoonery,
and the ballet. There is abundance of wit,--plenty of real smartness on
every side. The fellows who have just described the cut of a tucker can
tell you accurately the contents of a treaty; and they who did not seem
to have a thought above the depth of a flounce or the width of a sandal,
are thoroughly well versed in the politics of every State of Europe.
There is no touch of sarcasm in their gayety,--none of that refined,
subtle ridicule that runs through a Frenchman's talk; these fellows are
eminently good-natured: the code of morals is not severe, and hence the
secret of the merciful judgments you hear pronounced on every one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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