the cross-roads; now it was a Judas,--that was like Tom Noon of the
turnpike; and now it was a lovely head by Titian,--the "very moral of
Miss Kitty Doolan, when her hair was down about her." I am certain, my
dearest Miss Cox, that the delight conveyed by painting and music is
a much more natural pleasure than that derived from the enjoyment of
imaginary composition by writing. The appeal is not alone direct, but
it is in a manner the same to all,--to the highest king upon the throne,
and to the lowly peasant, as in meek wonder he stands entranced and
enraptured.
But why do I loiter within doors when it is of Florence itself, of its
sunny Arno, of its cypress-crowned San Miniato, and of the villa-clad
Fiezole I would tell you! But even these are so interwoven with the
frame of mind in which I now enjoy them, that to speak of them would be
again to revert to my selfishness.
Yesterday we made an excursion to Vallambrosa, which lies in a cleft
between two lofty mountains, about thirteen miles from this. It was a
strange transition from the warm air and sunny streets of Florence, with
all their objects of artistic wonder on every side, to find one's self
suddenly traversing a wild mountain gorge in a rude bullock-cart,
guided by a peasant of semi-savage aspect, his sheepskin mantle and long
ox-goad giving a picturesque air to his tall and sinewy figure. The snow
lay heavily in all the crevices around, and it was a perfectly Alpine
scene in its desolation; nor, I must say, did it recall a single one
of the ideas with which our great poet has associated it. The thickly
strewn leaves have no existence here, since the trees are not deciduous,
and consist entirely of pines.
A straight avenue in the forest leads to the convent, which is of
immense size, forming a great quadrangle. At a little distance off,
sheltered by a thick grove of tall pines, stands a small building
appropriated to the accommodation of strangers, who are the guests
of the monks for any period short of three days, and by a special
permission for even a longer time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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