The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient TurnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Dover Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
The entrance to Canterbury from London is one of the most impressive
approaches to a city to be found in all England. The traveller passes
through the suburb of Saint Dunstan, by the old parish church that holds
the severed head of Sir Thomas More, coming into the city through a street
of ancient houses and under the postern arch of West Gate. The great drum
towers of West Gate mark the ancient limits of the mediaeval city, and
guard an opening in the city wall which stood on the further side of the
little river Stour. A drawbridge effectually prevented the entrance of an
enemy, and when the strongly-guarded gate was closed at nightfall, belated
citizens had to stay outside and put up with the inconvenience as best
they could, in company with such travellers and pilgrims as arrived late
from too much storytelling, feasting, or praying, on the road. For the
accommodation of these travellers the suburbs of Saint Dunstan and West
Gate arose early without the walls of the city, and several inns--the
"Star" and the "Falstaff" among them--remain to show how considerable was
the belated company entertained here.
West Gate, as we now see it, is the successor of a much earlier gate, and
was built by the ill-fated Simon of Sudbury. It is the only one remaining
of all the seven gates of the city, and owes its preservation rather to
its convenience as a prison for poor debtors, than to any love our
eighteenth-century barbarians had for mediaeval architecture. It is to-day
a police-station, and thus carries on the frugal and utilitarian
traditions which originally spared it in the destruction of much else of
beauty and interest.
Ancient buildings are carefully preserved nowadays. Why? Can we flatter
ourselves that the provincial mind is more enlightened? I am afraid not,
and must sorrowfully come to the conclusion that the ignorant authorities
of our country towns would be as ready as ever to demolish their old
monuments, did not their natural shrewdness teach them that, as strangers
come from all quarters of the world to view their historical remains, they
must be regarded in the light of a valuable asset. So far, they are
undoubtedly right. Let them "restore" and tear down the remaining gates
and towers and castles in the provincial towns of England, and they will
prove, in the scarcity of visitors that will follow on their Vandalism,
how valuable, in more senses than one, are the ancient ways.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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