The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient TurnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Dover Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
One of the most outstanding historical figures upon the Dover Road is that
no less kindly than courtly Ambassador, the Duc de Nivernais. That
cultured Frenchman was employed by his sovereign, Louis the Fifteenth, in
negotiating a Treaty of Peace which should conclude that disastrous
contest to France, the Seven Years' War. An exchange of Ambassadors was
effected between Great Britain and France; the Duke of Bedford crossing
the Channel to Calais in the early part of September, 1762, the Duc de
Nivernais voyaging to Dover, and landing there on the morning of
September 11. The elements had been unkind to him, and his passage
occupied no less than five hours; but Nivernais handed over to Captain
Ray, the commander of the _Princess Augusta_ yacht (the vessel in which he
had voyaged and suffered the most horrible pangs of sea-sickness), the sum
of one hundred guineas, to be divided among the crew. Perhaps the
unbounded gratitude with which he found himself again upon the shore--even
though it were not his native land--accounted for the magnitude of this
largesse.
The country was not eager for the peace which exhausted France desired,
and looked upon Nivernais' commission rather as an attempt to curtail the
glory which England and Englishmen were reaping on land and achieving by
sea; but the French Ambassador was received with a show of enthusiasm and
the discharge of cannon as he landed at Dover, and a crowd of shouting
countrymen cheered him as, bowing his acknowledgments of this reception,
he bowled away in a coach and six horses, accompanied by a retinue of
twelve persons.
Bowled, did I say? Nay: the motion of the ill-hung equipages of that day,
tumbling along over the wretched roads of those times, resembled little
the smooth career of bowls gliding over trimly shaven bowling-greens.
Rather should the motion be described as a series of hesitating lurches
and unexpected jolts; and this in the comparative excellence of the
highways in September!
The Ambassador had started upon his journey from Dover to London as soon
as possible after the early hour of the morning when he had landed from
the "Chops of the Channel"; but he arrived at Canterbury too late for
further progress to be made that day. Therefore he put up in the Cathedral
city, after having had the empty satisfaction, to a traveller in his
exhausted condition, of being received _en grande tenue_ by the garrison.
The "Red Lion" inn was at that time the proper place for a personage of
his quality to lie, and so the Duke with his party stayed there the night.
For that night's lodging for twelve persons, with a frugal supper in which
oysters, fowls, boiled mutton, poached eggs, and fried whiting figure, the
landlord of the "Red Lion" presented an account of over L44. This truly
grand bill has been preserved, not, let us hope, for the emulation of
other hotel-keepers, but by way of a "terrible example." Here it is:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account