The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient TurnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Dover Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Not all visitors to Canterbury were so evilly entreated as the Duc de
Nivernais. Indeed, the city has been remarkable rather for its lavish and
abounding hospitality than for any attempted over-reaching of the
stranger. But since those strangers were chiefly Kings and Emperors, and
great personages of that kind, perhaps it is little to be wondered at that
the citizens, to say nothing of those greedy time-servers, the Priors and
monks of Christ Church Priory and the Priory of Saint Augustine, rendered
to those great ones of the earth the most abject suit and service. Almost
every English sovereign has been here at some time or another, and many a
foreign potentate besides. Henry the Second, it is true, walked into the
city, barefoot, from Harbledown, and so to the Cathedral, doing abject
penance for the murder of Becket, four years previously, and it seems to
be equally true that as he proceeded to Becket's shrine he was scourged by
the monks on his bare back and shoulders with knotted cords; but I think
they would have laid on harder and with a better will had the penitent not
been of so exalted a station. In short, I have little faith in the
reported rigours of that punishment. A few years later came Henry's son,
Richard Lion Heart, enlarged from his foreign prison. He landed at the
port of Sandwich, and walked barefoot into Canterbury--so inimical was
Saint Thomas to shoe-leather. Edward the First was pious enough to lay the
Crown of Scotland before the Saint's shrine, and another Edward--the Black
Prince--came here, in all humility, with the captive King of France.
Another warrior, as brave and as ill-fated--Henry the Fifth--paid his
devoirs to Becket as he came up the road, fresh from his glorious French
campaigns. Another Henry, the Eighth and last of his name, bowed before
the shrine in 1520, in company with the Emperor Charles the Fifth. On that
occasion he was as fervent a worshipper as could well be desired, and as
sincere as it is possible for a man to be who is at the same time a King
and half a Welshman. No thoughts of spoliation of the Church then passed
his mind. Indeed, the ecclesiastical dignitaries of the time made much of
his visit, which seems to have been celebrated in a more than royal
manner, if we may trust the chroniclers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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