The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient TurnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Dover Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Many Coldharbours are in exceedingly exposed places, as indeed here, on
Barham Downs,[8] and many more are in quite sheltered situations, in
places where dense woodlands once spread, giving work and shelter to
charcoal-burners. This fact has led to the formulation of another theory,
one which holds that these strangely named places were, prosaically
enough, "coal-harbours," or storage-places for charcoal. It is much to be
desired that some leisured antiquary would devote himself to the
elucidation of the name and the rescuing of the purpose of these
Coldharbours from the mists of a remote and romantic antiquity. The other
Kentish Coldharbours to be found near the Watling Street are at
Bishopsbourne, Bridge, Newington, Northfleet, Sittingbourne, and Woolwich,
and all--so close is the connection between the name and ancient
dwellings--near the site of undoubted Roman stations or villas. Alike with
the equally mysterious name of "Mockbeggar," which also occurs with great
frequency, the meaning of "Coldharbour" will probably never be
discovered.[9]
Standing here beside the road at evening when the sun is going down and
these bleak unenclosed uplands grow dark and mysterious, the centuries
pass away like a fevered dream. Here and there the solemn expanse of the
barren land is diversified by a few trees; here and there a few yards of
hedge, beginning nowhere in particular and ending with equal strangeness,
skirt the way; weather-beaten sign-posts start suddenly out of the
moorland, and occasional haycocks take on a dead and awful blackness as
the evening light dies out of the sky in long and angry streaks of red.
When the moon rises and casts her cold beams upon the road and plays
strange pranks with the shadows of trees and bushes, then the days of the
Romans are come once more, and the legionaries live again. They rise from
their camp of nineteen hundred years ago; they march along the Watling
Street that was made by their descendants; and the sheen of their armour,
the glitter of the pale moonlight on their eagle standards, and the
tramp of many feet are as real to the imaginative traveller, if not of
a greater reality, than the moaning telegraph that runs on countless poles
in a diminishing procession beside the road as far as eye can reach.
[Illustration: WATLING STREET: MOONRISE.]
XL
By daylight the traveller can see that the barren chalk of Barham Downs,
although left so long in repose, has been lately cut up into golf links. A
racecourse, little frequented now, also stands on the ridge. Bourne Park
skirts the road for some distance on the right, and the spire of Barham
Church, rising from behind a thick clump of trees in a little valley,
shows where the village of Barham lies secluded, some three hundred yards
down a country lane.
[Sidenote: THE BARHAM FAMILY]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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