The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient TurnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Dover Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Turning, however, to a consideration of the two other objects of Byron's
outburst in _Don Juan_, the hotel and the cliffs, whether Shakespeare's
Cliff or those that form so grand a rampart away towards the North
Foreland, Byron, we find, was justified in his choice of Dovorian features
for due commemoration. For the cliffs, all that is to be said of the white
walls of old Albion has been long ago committed to print, and I do not
propose to attempt the saying of anything new about them. As for the hotel
of which the poet speaks, it was probably the "Ship." The "Ship," alas! is
gone, retired, as many of its landlords were enabled to do, into private
life, and the "long, long bills" by which they earned rather more than a
modest competency are now produced elsewhere. The "Lord Warden," which was
not, unfortunately, built in Byron's time, could probably have afforded
him material for another stanza or two, for that huge and supremely
hideous building was celebrated at one time for the monumental properties
of the bills presented to affrighted guests. Magnificent as were the
charges made by rapacious hosts elsewhere, they all paled their
ineffectual items before the sublime heights attained by the account
rendered to Louis Napoleon when he stayed here.
There are limits even to Princely-Presidential purses and patiences, and
few people cared to incur liabilities at the "Lord Warden," which would
have brought the shadow of the Bankruptcy Court looming upon the horizon.
As for that most doughty of Lord Wardens of the Cinque Ports, from whose
historic office the hotel takes its title--I name here, of course, the one
and only "Duke of Wellington"--_he_ usually resorted to an unpretending
hostelry, the "Royal Oak Commercial Hotel," in Cannon Street, nearly
opposite the old Church of St. Mary's, whenever he was called to the town.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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