The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient TurnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Dover Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
For from Dover Keep the Eye of Faith may discern the coast of France,
twenty-one miles across the Silver Streak; but there be those to whom, if
visible at all, that coast seems like nothing so much as filmy clouds
resting upon the water, and there are but few days when the sun and the
absence of sea-mists enable the Englishman's straining eyes clearly to
discern that land.
The famous well of Dover Castle still exists, enclosed in the massive
walls, and still nearly three hundred feet deep, despite the rubbish and
unmentionable abominations cast into it by the prisoners, who chiefly
occupied the second floor in which are the Norman Chapel and two large
rooms, their walls still bearing traces of the prisoners' handiwork in the
shape of inscriptions. Here is the Armoury, with matchlocks, Brown Besses,
muskets, and rifles; obsolete and in use. Here, too, are the pikes issued
to the peasantry when all England armed to resist Napoleon's threatened
invasion. Down below (you can see it from those embrasures) is "Queen
Elizabeth's Pocket Pistol," familiar, even to those who have never seen
it, by the popular rhyme--
Load me well and keep me clean,
And I'll carry a ball to Calais Green;
and all around are batteries old and new.
The sentry on Dover Keep at night, when all the world is still, has
leisure for contemplation. When the moon rises in solemn majesty on summer
nights and makes a lane of silvery glory across the Channel; when the
winking light from Cape Grisnez shows where the French coast lies, and the
glow from the lighthouse on the Admiralty Pier marks the harbour at his
feet; when Dover lamps burn yellow beside the moonrays, and the high-road
to London lies stark and white in the valley of the Dour, then may the
sentry on his eyrie hear, between the ghostly tapping of the halyards on
the flagstaff, the tramp of the ages. Forty centuries looked down upon the
French in Egypt; the sentry on Dover Castle looks upon nineteen hundred
years of invasion and foreign expeditions. There, where Dover streets now
stand, rode Caesar's galleys and there our ancestors bled for their
country. Down that white highway, so still at this midnight hour, have
marched many generations of archers, men-at-arms, and soldiers of a more
recent era, to return, covered with wounds and glory; and across that
shining sea have sailed fleets innumerable. For a distance of four hundred
feet below him run a series of fortified galleries and platforms, built in
the Castle Keep or excavated through the solid chalk down to sea-level;
while level with him, rise the Western Heights, rich in heavy ordnance,
across the town. Here, then, is the end of the Dover Road, looking out
across the sea; and he must needs be dull of brain who does not perceive
the epic fitness of its ending.
THE END
INDEX.
Alkham, 238
Bapchild, 144, 162
Barham, 233
Barham Downs, 1, 96, 218, 222-233, 236
Barham Family, 233-235
Barham, Rev. Richard Harris, 80, 234
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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