The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient TurnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Dover Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
If my imaginary traveller comes to Rochester without having read that tale
he will be singularly fortunate. Otherwise he will have an uneasy feeling
as he stands and gazes a moment upon the west front of the Cathedral, or
peeps into the nave, that it ought to be re-consecrated. This, of course,
is a tribute to Dickens' descriptive and narrative powers that clothe the
doings of his characters with so great an air of reality; but how
unfortunate for those who like their murders to be decently old and
historical that he should have brought the atmosphere of the police-court
into the grave and reverend air of this ancient city.
My traveller, happily unversed in all this, will gaze upon the Cathedral
and the Castle Keep, where the rooks are circling to rest, and, coming
again into the High Street, will turn to his inn, where appetite,
sharpened by pedestrianism and fresh air, may be appeased as well now as
in those days of heavy drinking and no less heavy eating, when seventy-two
coaches passed through Rochester daily and the trains that thunder across
the Medway were undreamt of.
The inns of Rochester receive, as may well be supposed, many pilgrims who
for love of Chaucer, Shakespeare, and Dickens, come hither, not alone from
all parts of England, but from America, and even from foreign-speaking
countries, and the visitors' books testify not only to their opinions of
the place but also of each other. Thus at one inn I read the signatures of
a party of Germans, to which some prejudiced Briton, after sundry
offensive remarks about foreigners in general and Germans in particular,
adds, "They are everywhere, d----n them!" But I must confess that the
following surprised me, even after a long acquaintance with the inanities
of visitors' books. Some one had remarked "How like Rochester Cathedral
was to a Catholic Church," whereupon some other idiot adds, "Of course it
is Catholic, but not Roman Catholic." Really one scarcely knows whom to
pity most.
[Sidenote: THE "BULL"]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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