The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient TurnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Dover Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Master Watts entertained the Queen at his house on Boley (? Beaulieu) Hill
on the last day of her visit, and when that courtly man apologised for the
"poor cottage" (he didn't mean it, but 'twas the custom so to do) Her
Majesty is supposed to have graciously answered "Satis," and so Satis
House it remained, and the hideous building that now stands upon its site
still bears, grotesquely enough, its name.
Quite a train of miscellaneous Royalties and celebrities came here after
Elizabeth's second visit in 1582; the Duke of Sully; James the First, who
angered the seafaring population because he didn't care for the ships,
loved hunting, and was afraid of the cannon--James the First again, with
Christian the Fourth of Denmark and Prince Henry; Prince Henry by himself
in 1611; Frederick, Elector Palatine of Bohemia; Charles the First on two
occasions, on the second of which "the trane-bands ... scarmished in
warlike manner to His Majesties great content"; the French Ambassador, in
1641, who thought Rochester was chiefly observable on account of its
Bridge "furnished with high railings, that drunkards, not uncommon here,
may not mix water with their wine"; and nineteen years later, Charles the
Second, on his "glorious and never-to-be-forgotten Restoracion."
How Charles was feted here, and how he stayed at the beautiful old place
that has taken the name of "Restoration House" from this visit, these
pages cannot tell; the story is too long.
[Sidenote: PEPYS]
And here, in the name of all that's lewd and scandal-mongering, comes old
Pepys again. It is no use trying to keep him out of one's pages: suppress
him at one place, and he recurs unfailingly at another, with a worse
record than before. I discreetly "sat on" him at Deptford, but here he is
at Rochester, "goin' on hawful," to quote one of Dickens' characters (I
forget which, and the society of so many Kings and Queens on the Dover
Road is so fatiguing that I have neither sufficient time nor energy to
inquire).
Well then, it was in 1667[6] that Mr. Samuel Pepys came here, and, putting
up at the "White Hart," strolled into the Cathedral, more intent upon the
architecture than the doctrine, it would seem; for when service began he
walked out into the fields, and there "saw Sir F. Clark's pretty seat."
And so "into the Cherry Garden, and here he met with a young, plain, silly
shopkeeper and his wife, a pretty young woman, and I did kiss her!" And
after this they dined, and walked in the fields together till dark, "and
so to bed," without the usual "God forgive me!" which, considering how he
had shirked the Cathedral service, and how questionable had been his
conduct in the Cherry Garden, was more needful than ever, one would think.
[Illustration: HIGH STREET, ROCHESTER: EASTGATE HOUSE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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