The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and StudentBeech, Franklin
Science
The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and Student
Beech, Franklin
Dyes and dyeing -- Cotton
The most common form of machine in which pieces are dyed is The Jigger,
commonly called the jig. This is shown in Figs. 18 and 19. It consists
of a dye-vessel made sufficiently long to take the piece full
width--wide at the top and narrow at the bottom. At the top at each side
is placed a large winding roller on which the cloth is wound. At the
bottom of the jig is placed a guide roller round which passes the cloth.
In some makes of jigs (Fig. 19) there are two guide rollers at the
bottom and one at the top, as shown in the illustration, so that the
cloth passes several times through the dye-liquor. In working, the cloth
is first wound on one of the rollers, then threaded through the guide
rollers and attached to the other winding roller. When this is done
dye-liquor is run into the jig, the gearing set in motion, and the cloth
wound from the full on to the empty roller. With the object of keeping
the piece tight, a heavy press roller is arranged to bear on the cloth
on the full roller. When all the cloth has passed from one roller to the
other it is said to have been given "one end". The direction of motion
is now changed, and the cloth sent in the opposite direction through the
jig, and the piece has now received another "end". This alternation from
one roller to the other is continued as long as is deemed necessary,
much depending on the depth of colour which is being dyed--some pale
shades may only take two or three ends, deeper shades may take more.
When dyeing wool with acid colours which are all absorbed from the
dye-liquor, or the bath is exhausted, it is a good plan to run the
pieces several more ends so as to ensure thorough fixation of the dye on
the cloth.
It is not advisable in working these jigs to add the whole of the dye to
the liquor at the commencement, but only a part of it; then when one end
is given, another portion of the dye may be added; such portions being
always in the form of solution. Adding dyes in powder form inevitably
leads to the production of colour specks on the finished goods. The
reason for thus adding the dye-stuff in portions is that with some dyes
the affinity for the fibre is so great that if all were added at once it
would all be absorbed before the cloth had been given one end; and,
further, the cloth would be very deep at the front end, while it would
shade off to no colour at the other end. By adding the dye in portions
this difficulty is overcome and more level shades are obtained; it is
met with in all cases of jigger dyeing, but it is most common in dyeing
cotton or wool with basic dyes like magenta, auramine, methyl violet or
brilliant green, and in dyeing wool with acid dyes like acid green,
formyl violets, azo scarlet, or acid yellow.
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