Whenever possible the dye-stuff must be dissolved separately, or at
least the bath not entered before the dye-stuff is well dissolved.
Artificial dye-stuffs require particular attention to this point,
because the presence of undissolved particles is the cause of (p. 080)
irregularities, such as streaks, or, at least, specks. The solution is
mostly made hot as follows: After pouring water at 180 deg. F. upon the
dye-stuff, stir gently, strain through flannel or through a very fine
sieve, and pour more water upon the residue until nothing more is
dissolved. As is well known, the artificial dye-stuffs often contain
insoluble matter, resins, etc. It is therefore advisable to use only
soft water for this operation.
The solutions of artificial dye-stuffs are ordinarily made at the rate
of 1 to 5 lb. per 10 gallons of water, 2 lb. being the proportion
mostly employed. This depends more or less on the solubility of the
dye-stuff. Old solutions sometimes contain crystals of the dye-stuff
which have separated out. These should be redissolved by heating
before the solution is used. But it is best to make only such a
quantity of solution as will suffice for immediate requirements.
With paste colours care should be taken to keep them in closed vessels
in such a manner that they will not become hard by evaporation, and
they should not be kept in any place where they are likely to freeze
in winter time. In such an event it is not an uncommon circumstance
for the casks or other vessels containing them to burst, with a
consequent loss of dye-stuff. Before any of the paste is withdrawn
from the cask, it is advisable to stir well up with a wooden stirrer.
In adding dye-stuff during the actual dyeing operation, it is
advisable to add the dye-stuff to the bath in two or three portions,
always taking out the goods before adding each lot of dye-stuff, and
stirring up the contents of the bath before re-entering the goods.
Another important condition of obtaining a level dyeing is to proceed
slowly, beginning with a weak bath at a moderate temperature, and
rising gradually to a boil. If necessary to retard the dyeing from the
commencement, then an assistant mordant is added to the dye-bath, in
the shape of soda crystals or phosphate of soda for the benzidine (p. 081)
colours on cotton; bisulphate of soda or Glauber's salt in dyeing with
azo colours or acid colours on wool; or tartar may be used in most
cases with good effect, causing the wool to have a softer feel. Finally,
the evenness of the dyeing is much increased by the frequent turning
over of the material in the dye-bath, so managing this in the case of
wool as to avoid felting.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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