When dyeing with a mordant, the dyer should see that the mordanting
operation is thoroughly well done, for as much care is required for
the mordanting as for the actual dyeing; in fact, if anything, the
mordanting should be done with rather more care, as if it be at all
defective no amount of care in the following dyeing operations will
ensure a level dyeing. Chrome mordanted wool should be dyed without
delay, as it is rather sensitive to light, especially the yellow sort,
which gradually changes into the green sort of chromed wool.
One peculiarity of dyed wool is that it will continue to take up
colour after it is removed from the dye-bath, especially if it
contains any of the hot dye-liquor, therefore it is very desirable to
wash the wool as soon as possible after its removal from the dye-bath.
It is best, however, not to take the wool out of the hot bath, but to
leave it in until the bath becomes cool, and then to take it out, by
this means the colour becomes deeper and more solid looking, and is
faster on the wool.
One cause of irregular dyeing may be mentioned, as it is occasionally
met with, namely, the presence of foreign fibres in the goods, cotton
in wool fabrics, and even of different varieties of the same fibre.
All dyers know that dead or immature cotton will not dye up properly,
a fact or defect more especially met with in indigo dyeing than probably
in any other colour. Then wools from different breeds of sheep vary
considerably in their dyeing power. Fine wools take up more colour (p. 082)
than coarse, and, consequently, even from the same bath, will come out a
deeper shade; if a fabric, therefore, contains the two kinds of cotton,
or the two kinds of wool, they will not dye up evenly.
In the preceding sections brief notes have been given about the
principal methods of dyeing wool, with some indications of the dyes
which can be used under each method. In the succeeding sections will
be given a number of recipes showing how, and with what dye-stuffs,
various colours, shades and tints can be dyed upon wool. It will be
understood that these recipes are applicable to all kinds of woollen
fabrics, loose wool, slubbing, yarns in any form, woven worsted or
woollen cloths, felts of any kind, etc., all these different forms
require handling in a different way; it would not do, for instance, to
treat a quantity of slubbing in the same way as a piece of worsted
cloth, while hanks of yarn require a different mode of handling to a
quantity of hat bodies. The different kinds of woollen fabrics require
to be dealt with in different kinds of machines, and this has already
been dealt with in the chapter on Dyeing Machinery and Dyeing
Manipulations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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