The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeingPacker, Thomas
Science
The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeing
Packer, Thomas
Dyes and dyeing; Textile fabrics
Cotton cambric piece-goods are passed through a blotching machine to
receive a mordant of acetate of iron, and galled slightly; sumach is used
instead when galls are dear; the cotton is then passed through logwood,
or logwood and fustic, and then through sumach; so that it is possible
thus to give them the mordant sufficiently in proportion to the iron
liquor at first; proceed as in dyeing afterwards, at a heat approaching
boiling or even boiling. You may now proceed by adding first the galling
or sumach slightly; afterwards the logwood, &c.; and then the remainder
of the galling or sumach may be used to finish it; and thus dye the goods
black by the quickest possible process.
It should be observed respecting the last process and the process which
precedes it, that in dyeing black alum is inimical to the colour.
Therefore D'Apligny's is not now esteemed. Alum for black is as improper,
as it is proper and essential for red and yellow.
In regard to giving the acetate of iron for black at once, as the second,
or _London_ process directs, it may be done by having the proportions
full; by _full_ is meant that the mordant should be full enough; then,
after the slight galling, as directed in giving the logwood and alder
bark decoction, or logwood and fustic, be sure to have that decoction
strong enough. This might be called the ground; and the most perfect
judgment might be formed of it by having a part of a piece, or one piece
of a batch dried in the stove: for, according to the fullness of the
ground, so will the black be rich and perfect or otherwise.
The alder bark and fustic are used only to prevent the hue of the logwood
from being predominant. If the ground be a full and rich brown, the
second full galling or sumaching will bring it to a full and rich black;
but, if the ground be poor, these processes will cut or destroy the
ground, and the black will be foxy, nasty, and poor; and not only so, but
the material dyed will soon wear rotten, because having an over-dose of
iron, the iron will tend to decompose the cotton. Therefore the following
process is most esteemed.
_For dyeing_ BLACK _(particularly cotton velvets) at Manchester._
In a large dye-house where much business is done, a great many wine-pipes
or other large tubs, or any substitutes are arranged in an appropriate
place. Into these are put old iron hoops, rusted in the air, and cut into
short pieces; a layer of the iron pieces and a layer of the alder bark,
again a layer of iron and a layer of the bark, and so on in succession
from the bottom to the top. When the pipes are all thus filled, water is
poured into them till they are filled up; they remain in this state for
six weeks or two months according to the season, whether summer or winter.
The same process will do for any other cotton goods as well as velvets,
such as calicoes, cambric, and jaconot muslins, cotton in the skein, &c.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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