The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeingPacker, Thomas
Science
The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeing
Packer, Thomas
Dyes and dyeing; Textile fabrics
M. VITALIS, (in his work on Dyeing published in 1823) has given, at
length, the _mode of dyeing Turkey red at Rouen_. It differs in many
particulars from Berthollet and others. We learn from him that two
systems for imparting this colour are in use at Rouen. The first is
called the _grey course_ from the cotton being subjected to the maddering
immediately after it has received the oily preparations, and the mordants
of galls and alum which give it a _grey_ colour. The _yellow course_, is
so called from the cotton, after having received a first time the oily
preparations, as well as the mordants of galls and alum, _not_ being
exposed to the maddering till it has passed a second time through the
same preparations, and the same mordants which give it _a yellow_ colour.
This second manner of working the Turkey red is called, in the dye-house,
_remounting on the galls_. Dr. URE, in a note to Berthollet, vol. ii. p.
378, has detailed these two courses, and made, besides many valuable
observations on them, and the dyeing of Adrianople red generally, for
which we must refer to the work, as our limits prevent the possibility of
any further notice of them here, except to add, that a _process for
dyeing cotton of a smoke red_; and another for _dyeing cotton a cherry
red_, is well deserving the attention of the dyer.
In regard to the _blood_ used in dyeing Adrianople red, Dr. Ure decidedly
affirms, that "_it adds no colouring matter to the madder in the dyeing
operation_;" in this he is countenanced by the observations of Chaptal,
see Berthollet, vol. ii. p. 141. "To the use of blood in the madder
copper," says Dr. Ure, "I attribute nothing, as from the rancid and
putrid state in which I have seen it used, were it not for the prejudice
of the operator, it might be safely dispensed with." A very eminent
calico manufacturer, whom Dr. Ure consulted, assured him, that in the
Turkey red process the only essential mordants were oil and alumina; and
that bright and fast reds, equal to any produced by the complicated
processes of sheep's dung, galls and blood may be obtained without those
articles.
We make no comments on these observations, but leave them to the good
sense and intelligence of the dyer: they deserve the utmost attention.
_Linen yarn_ takes a colour almost as brilliant as that of cotton, but it
must be passed through a double number of oils and leys. The latter must
even be very strong, otherwise the oil flows out at the surface. The
greatest attention must be bestowed on the scouring out first: for the
yarn mingles and entangles by the heat to such a degree, that it
sometimes can be neither dipped nor unravelled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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