The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeingPacker, Thomas
Science
The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeing
Packer, Thomas
Dyes and dyeing; Textile fabrics
If the furniture, such as rough or finished cotton or cambric, intended
for yellow linings for bed or window curtains, be in a perfectly bleached
state, which is now generally the case, according to the number of the
pieces, so must the size of the copper be to boil the weld in for the
yellow dye. A small copper holding four or five pails would do for three
pieces of twenty eight yards each. The weld may be purchased by the half
bundle, the bundle, or the load. Half a bundle would be enough for the
above quantity of cotton, if a moderate yellow is wanted. The weld must
be increased or decreased according as the pattern approaches a straw, a
canary, a lemon, or towards a gold colour or orange.
The weld must be boiled about twenty minutes, the liquor then strained
off into a proper tub, and the weld boiled again. While the boilings are
going on, three tubs, being wine pipes cut in two, must be got ready and
made particularly clean, being also previously seasoned for the work. One
is to receive the boiled weld with some cold water to regulate it to the
heat which the hand will bear; the other is for water, and as much alum
liquor as will colour it and make it taste strong; and the third is to
contain clear water to wash the furniture off.
Whatever yellow is in _fashion_ (or indeed any fashionable colour,) has
commonly a _fashionable name_. But if the dyer can, by his experience,
proportion his drugs to the weakest, and from that to the strongest
shade, let the name be what it may, after he has a set of patterns of his
own dyeing, he will see, upon the first sight of any colour, how to set
about it.
In the present instance let the pattern be a moderately pale colour of
yellow; then put all the first boiling of the weld in the first tub, and
cool down as above directed. Two or three persons should then work the
pieces quick from end to end by the selvages, that they may be even, two
may do this; one of whom must be an expeditious hand to work them and
keep them even. When they have been edged over six or seven times, they
are to be folded out upon a board laid over the tub, and wrung as dry as
possible by two persons. When they are all out, they are passed in the
same manner through the tub of alum, and, after six or seven turns, they
are to be taken out of the alum liquor, wrung as before, and then washed
off.
By this time the second weld liquor will be boiled; some of the first
must be thrown away, and the second weld liquor added in its place. The
goods are then passed through as before, and wrung out; the alum liquor
being strengthened, they are passed through it, wrung out as before, and
then washed off: the water in the wash tub having been changed.
In some instances verdigris is used instead of alum; and in other cases
it is used in addition to the alum. For some shades old fustic is used
instead of weld, and sulphate of copper instead of verdigris.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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