The East India Vade-Mecum, Volume 1 (of 2): or, complete guide to gentlemen intended for the civil, military, or naval service of the East India Company.Williamson, Thomas
History
The East India Vade-Mecum, Volume 1 (of 2): or, complete guide to gentlemen intended for the civil, military, or naval service of the East India Company.
Williamson, Thomas
India -- Social life and customs -- 19th century -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.
‘The _pyjama_, or drawers, were formerly worn so tight, as to render it
a work of some labor to get them on. Indeed, to such a length did this
taste go at one time, that many of the famous courtezans had themselves
painted in imitation of _keemkab_[13] from the waist downwards. In the
upper provinces, they are now made to fit exactly above the knee, but
from thence downwards quite loose, and so long as to press on the shoe.
In the lower provinces, the exact reverse takes place. In Bengal, it is
deemed immodest to wear the _ungeeas_, or supporters to the breast. In
the upper provinces, a woman would be ashamed to be seen without them.
-----
Footnote 13:
_Keemkab_ is a sort of silken fabric, in which flowers, &c. are woven.
-----
‘The _coortee_, or kind of banian, must be of the thinnest muslin, so
that the tapering waist, which they so much admire, and of which our
ladies now deny us the view, may be distinctly seen. The sleeves short,
and the _coortee_ itself so much so, that the _nicfa_, a different
colored cloth at the top of the _pyjama_, may not be concealed, the
_doo-puttah_, or two breadths of muslin, formed into the shape of a
scotch plaid, and worn nearly in the same manner, is thrown over the
whole.
‘The _paishwaz_, meaning _open in front_, is not now in fashion. This is
the robe from which our ladies have taken their present dress, but which
they have modestly closed before, having no painted _keemkabs_ to shew.
Petticoats, (called _bandanas_,) are sometimes worn by Mahomedan ladies,
especially in the rainy season, when the diversion of _swinging_
commences, but never without drawers under them.—Widows should not wear
cloaths stained with any but what are termed _pukka_, or lasting colors;
nor should these be of the glaring kind. Their _pyjamas_ must always be
white, which a married lady never wears.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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