The alongshore deposits which we have now studied are the exposed edge
of a vast subaqueous sheet of waste which borders the continents and
extends often for as much as two or three hundred miles from land.
Soundings show that offshore deposits are laid in belts parallel to
the coast, the coarsest materials lying nearest to the land and the
finest farthest out. The pebbles and gravel and the clean, coarse sand
of beaches give place to broad stretches of sand, which grows finer
and finer until it is succeeded by sheets of mud. Clearly there is an
offshore movement of waste by which it is sorted, the coarser being
sooner dropped and the finer being carried farther out.
Offshore Deposits
The debris torn by waves from rocky shores is far less in amount than
the waste of the land brought down to the sea by rivers, being only
one thirty-third as great, according to a conservative estimate. Both
mingle alongshore in all the forms of beach and bar that have been
described, and both are together slowly carried out to sea. On the
shelving ocean floor waste is agitated by various movements of the
unquiet water,--by the undertow (an outward-running bottom current
near the shore), by the ebb and flow of tides, by ocean currents where
they approach the land, and by waves and ground swells, whose effects
are sometimes felt to a depth of six hundred feet. By all these means
the waste is slowly washed to and fro, and as it is thus ground finer
and finer and its soluble parts are more and more dissolved, it drifts
farther and farther out from land. It is by no steady and rapid
movement that waste is swept from the shore to its final resting
place. Day after day and century after century the grains of sand and
particles of mud are shifted to and fro, winnowed and spread in
layers, which are destroyed and rebuilt again and again before they
are buried safe from further disturbance.
These processes which are hidden from the eye are among the most
important of those with which our science has to do; for it is they
which have given shape to by far the largest part of the stratified
rocks of which the land is made.
=The continental delta.= This fitting term has been recently suggested
for the sheet of waste slowly accumulating along the borders of the
continents. Within a narrow belt, which rarely exceeds two or three
hundred miles, except near the mouths of muddy rivers such as the
Amazon and Congo, nearly all the waste of the continent, whether worn
from its surface by the weather, by streams, by glaciers, or by the
wind, or from its edge by the chafing of the waves, comes at last to
its final resting place. The agencies which spread the material of the
continental delta grow more and more feeble as they pass into deeper
and more quiet water away from shore. Coarse materials are therefore
soon dropped along narrow belts near land. Gravels and coarse sands
lie in thick, wedge-shaped masses which thin out seaward rapidly and
give place to sheets of finer sand.
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