=How shore drift migrates.= It is under the action of waves and
currents that shore drift migrates slowly along a coast. Where waves
strike a coast obliquely they drive the waste before them little by
little along the shore. Thus on a north-south coast, where the
predominant storms are from the northeast, there will be a migration
of shore drift southwards.
All shores are swept also by currents produced by winds and tides.
These are usually far too gentle to transport of themselves the coarse
materials of which beaches are made. But while the wave stirs the
grains of sand and gravel, and for a moment lifts them from the
bottom, the current carries them a step forward on their way. The
current cannot lift and the wave cannot carry, but together the two
transport the waste along the shore. The road of shore drift is
therefore the zone of the breaking waves.
[Illustration: Fig. 141. A Bay Bar, Lake Ontario]
=The bay-head beach.= As the waste derived from the wear of waves and
that brought in by streams is trailed along a coast it assumes, under
varying conditions, a number of distinct forms. When swept into the
head of a sheltered bay it constitutes the bay-head beach. By the
highest storm waves the beach is often built higher than the ground
immediately behind it, and forms a dam inclosing a shallow pond or
marsh.
=The bay bar.= As the stream of shore drift reaches the mouth of a bay
of some size it often occurs that, instead of turning in, it sets
directly across toward the opposite headland. The waste is carried out
from shore into the deeper waters of the bay mouth; where it is no
longer supported by the breaking waves, and sinks to the bottom. The
dump is gradually built to the surface as a stubby spur, pointing
across the bay, and as it reaches the zone of wave action current and
wave can now combine to carry shore drift along it, depositing their
load continually at the point of the spur. An embankment is thus
constructed in much the same manner as a railway fill, which, while it
is building, serves as a roadway along which the dirt from an adjacent
cut is carted to be dumped at the end. When the embankment is
completed it bridges the bay with a highway along which shore drift
now moves without interruption, and becomes a bay bar.
[Illustration: Fig. 142. A Hook, Lake Michigan]
=Incomplete bay bars.= Under certain conditions the sea cannot carry
out its intention to bridge a bay. Rivers discharging in bays demand
open way to the ocean. Strong tidal currents also are able to keep
open channels scoured by their ebb and flow. In such cases the most
that land waste can do is to build spits and shoals, narrowing and
shoaling the channel as much as possible. Incomplete bay bars
sometimes have their points recurved by currents setting at right
angles to the stream of shore drift and are then classified as _hooks_
(Fig. 142).
[Illustration: Fig. 143. Cross Section of Sand Reef _sr_, and
Lagoon; _sl_, Sea Level]
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