THE BAY BAR. As the stream of shore drift reaches the mouth of a
bay of some size it often occurs that, instead of turning in, it
sets directly across toward the opposite headland. The waste is
carried out from shore into the deeper waters of the bay mouth;
where it is no longer supported by the breaking waves, and sinks
to the bottom. The dump is gradually built to the surface as a
stubby spur, pointing across the bay, and as it reaches the zone
of wave action current and wave can now combine to carry shore
drift along it, depositing their load continually at the point of
the spur. An embankment is thus constructed in much the same
manner as a railway fill, which, while it is building, serves as a
roadway along which the dirt from an adjacent cut is carted to be
dumped at the end. When the embankment is completed it bridges the
bay with a highway along which shore drift now moves without
interruption, and becomes a bay bar.
INCOMPLETE BAY BARS. Under certain conditions the sea cannot carry
out its intention to bridge a bay. Rivers discharging in bays
demand open way to the ocean. Strong tidal currents also are able
to keep open channels scoured by their ebb and flow. In such cases
the most that land waste can do is to build spits and shoals,
narrowing and shoaling the channel as much as possible. Incomplete
bay bars sometimes have their points recurved by currents setting
at right angles to the stream of shore drift and are then
classified as HOOKS (Fig. 142).
SAND REEFS. On low coasts where shallow water extends some
distance out, the highway of shore drift lies along a low, narrow
ridge, termed the sand reef, separated from the land by a narrow
stretch of shallow water called the LAGOON. At intervals the reef
is held open by INLETS,--gaps through which the tide flows and
ebbs, and by which the water of streams finds way to the sea.
No finer example of this kind of shore line is to be found in the
world than the coast of Texas. From near the mouth of the Rio
Grande a continuous sand reef draws its even curve for a hundred
miles to Corpus Christi Pass, and the reefs are but seldom
interrupted by inlets as far north as Galveston Harbor. On this
coast the tides are variable and exceptionally weak, being less
than one foot in height, while the amount of waste swept along the
shore is large. The lagoon is extremely shallow, and much of it is
a mud flat too shoal for even small boats. On the coast of New
Jersey strong tides are able to keep open inlets at intervals of
from two to twenty miles in spite of a heavy alongshore drift.
Sand reefs are formed where the water is so shallow near shore
that storm waves cannot run in it and therefore break some
distance out from land. Where storm waves first drag bottom they
erode and deepen the sea floor, and sweep in sediment as far as
the line where they break. Here, where they lose their force, they
drop their load and beat up the ridge which is known as the sand
reef when it reaches the surface.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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