The Englishwoman in Russia : $b impressions of the society and manners of the Russians at homeA lady
History
The Englishwoman in Russia : $b impressions of the society and manners of the Russians at home
A lady
Russia -- Social life and customs -- 1533-1917
I have given no account of our various journeys in Russia, as it would be
merely a repetition of the same terms, in which forest, sand, and morass
would figure as the leading objects, and would indeed be only wearisome
to the reader. Not but that there are some pretty places here and there,
but they are very wide apart, and the trouble of wading through two or
three hundred versts of monotonous travels over the unchanging post-roads
would be but ill repaid by being told that on such a spot stands such
a town or such a village, the name of which is never heard beyond the
frontiers of the province in which it is situated, and which possesses
no interest whatever for any one but the traveller himself, who in
journeying through the country is apt to hail the sight of an inhabited
place with much the same feeling as he who in making a voyage across
the ocean welcomes the appearance of a strange ship in the offing: so
inconceivably wearying is the constant view of the endless tracts of
forest-land and waste. Descriptions of provincial towns would be almost
as tiresome as those of pine-woods and marshes; the same style of
houses, the same kind of churches with green roofs and gilt domes; the
streets badly paved, or rather unpaved; the same unvarying background of
firs and sky—in fact “_sameness all_.” Besides all these objections to
a detailed account, so many descriptions have already been published,
that the road from St. Petersburg to Moscow must be almost as well known
as that from London to York. Nothing perhaps is more striking to a
foreigner travelling through Russia than the utter want of animation in
the people; there are no merry laughs ringing joyously on the ear from
some light-hearted maiden; no lively bustle at the post-stations when the
diligence stops to change horses, such as was seen on similar occasions
when stage-coaches ran on the level roads of England, when the arrival
of the London mail caused quite an excitement in the village. The sound
of songs may be everywhere heard, it is true; but they can scarcely be
called joyful ones—they are almost always sad and mournful, being in
the minor key; their melancholy cadences, as a French writer remarks,
“might be said each to contain a tear.” The peasants’ downcast looks and
inexpressive faces—their cowed manner, as if they were shrinking from an
uplifted lash—the want of intelligence which the absence of civilization
causes in their countenance, give them an almost brutish appearance, and
cause a painful sensation in the stranger’s heart. Even the cattle seem
to want that air of life which makes our fields and meadows so gay; there
are no snowy flocks and frisking lambs, no shepherd’s dog with joyous
bark, no robin on the flowery thorn: it is, as my friend remarked, not
the “repose of the living,” but the “slumber of the dead,” that reigns
over the land of Muscovy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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