The Englishwoman in Russia : $b impressions of the society and manners of the Russians at homeA lady
History
The Englishwoman in Russia : $b impressions of the society and manners of the Russians at home
A lady
Russia -- Social life and customs -- 1533-1917
The general rule appears to be, that what is liked in St. Petersburg
should be hated in Moscow, and _vice versâ_; if, therefore, an actress
or singer _fait fureur_ in the western city, she is immediately hissed
in the eastern. If people be in an extasy of delight at some grand
discovery, such as table-moving, which has occupied the _powerful_
intellect of the inhabitants of St. Petersburg for the last year and a
half, it is, of course, but coldly received in Moscow; and so on. In
religion the Moscowites are in everything the most orthodox “Greek.”
It seems an established rule that old ladies superannuated from society
should go to reside in Moscow, in order to spend their last years among
the ancient churches, bigoted priests, monks, and nuns, with which the
city is perfectly crowded. When the world has lost its charms for them
(or, rather, they have lost their charms for the world), they retire
thither, and assiduously fast, pray, and _pay_, in the hopes of more
surely paving the road to heaven, and removing the brambles of youthful
sins and follies out of their path. The time that was formerly spent by
them at balls, the opera, and card-tables, they now devote to nightly
vigils in the churches, attending mass, and in visits to the convents and
their musty inmates. The money which they used to throw away in gambling
and extravagance, they now employ in making rich gifts to religious
houses, in purchasing dresses for the priests, and in giving presents to
pilgrims; so that, as may be supposed, the prospect of living merrily in
Moscow is rather clouded; but fortunately there are people neither so
old nor so bigoted but that they have amusements of their own. There are
an opera, a French theatre, assembly-rooms, which are very splendid, and
every social entertainment the same as in St. Petersburg; but the truth
must be told, they are all in very second-rate style. The streets in
Moscow are irregular, narrow, and badly paved, but there is an Asiatic
look about them and the inhabitants that pleases from its novelty. Some
of the houses are magnificent in appearance, and the elevated situation
of many of them adds greatly to their effect: they lie scattered here
and there among gardens, which serve greatly to embellish the general
aspect of the city. The views presented by almost every opening are
really beautiful, and possess so great a variety that they never cease
to delight the eye. The churches are extremely curious; many of them
are very ancient, and, were it not for the gilt crosses on the top,
they might be mistaken for oriental mosques. Some of them have the most
strange galleries on the exterior, the most extraordinary embellishments
of paint and colours, twisted towers, and wonderful roofs, that can be
imagined. But let us take a walk into the Kremlin, and have a general
view of the whole city. We are now passing down the Kousmitski Most,
or Smiths’ Bridge, which is the principal street, the Pall-Mall of the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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