The Englishwoman in Russia : $b impressions of the society and manners of the Russians at homeA lady
History
The Englishwoman in Russia : $b impressions of the society and manners of the Russians at home
A lady
Russia -- Social life and customs -- 1533-1917
The only object wanting to render the panorama perfect is water. What a
pity that the river is so narrow and scanty! The view of Moscow, for an
inland town, if it only had the broad Volga running through it instead of
this poor shallow stream, which scarcely serves to float the river-boats,
would be unequalled, excepting perhaps by the city of Mexico, which
filled Cortez and his iron warriors with so much delight. That enormous
square building with a church in the centre, that we see yonder to the
left, is the Foundling Hospital: it contains some thousands of inmates;
the children are brought up to serve the crown, or as servants and
needlewomen, according to their sex. The present state of affairs in
Russia renders such establishments necessary, in order to prevent the
crime of infanticide, which would otherwise be a common one. Far away to
the right are the Sparrow Hills, a very pretty place of resort for picnic
parties, &c.
It was near the spot on which we now are that Napoleon the Great is said
to have stood and gazed on the flames of the burning city beneath him,
in whose red glare of fiery light he read, as Belshazzar did of old upon
the wall, that his empire had passed away. Why did not Nicholas learn of
a mightier man than himself how dangerous it is to invade the hearths and
altars of another race, when ambition and not justice prompts the deed?
We could remain here for hours and yet never be tired of gazing on this
beautiful tableau; but there are many other objects to see, and so we
will continue our promenade.
In crossing the space within the Kremlin we pass more churches and more
barracks until we reach the Holy Gate: the picture of the Virgin and
Child is above it—of course it is a miraculous one. One of the greatest
miracles it ever performed was the remaining where it is when the French
invaded the city; for that gay and frolicsome people tried, so the
Russians say, with all their force to remove it, but in vain; so, _sous
entendu_, it could be nothing but a supernatural power that kept it fixed
where we now see it. We heretics may imagine, from its shabby appearance,
that they let it stay because it really was not worth their while to take
it away. The Russians regard it with extreme reverence, and the sentinel
placed near has strict orders to let no one pass through the gateway
unless he uncover his head. We ladies are exempted from this penalty, and
having unceremoniously walked through the arch we reach the large space
in front of the Gorod or Gostinoi Dwor. That strangely-built church to
the right, painted of all sorts of colours and twisted into all sorts
of contortions, is one that was erected at the command of Vassili the
Blessed, or, as some say, Ivan the Terrible, the Muscovite Caligula,[18]
who was so enchanted with it when it was finished that he ordered the
architect’s eyes to be _pulled out_, lest he should ever construct
another similar in beauty. What a pleasing encouragement to genius!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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