From this scene, on one side of the mountain, we had but to turn round our
eyes, and it was as if nature herself had become suddenly extinct;—a wide
waste of sands, bleak and interminable, wearying out the sun with its
sameness of desolation;—black, burnt‐up rocks, that stood as barriers, at
which life stopped;—while the only signs of animation, past or present,
were the foot‐prints, here and there, of an antelope or ostrich, or the
bones of dead camels, as they lay whitening at a distance, marking out the
track of the caravans over the waste.
After listening, while he contrasted, in a few eloquent words, the two
regions of life and death on whose confines we stood, I again descended
with my guide to the garden we had left. From thence, turning into a path
along the mountain‐side, he conducted me to another row of grottos, facing
the desert, which had once, he said, been the abode of those brethren in
Christ, who had fled with him to this solitude from the crowded world,—but
which death had, within a few months, rendered tenantless. A cross of red
stone, and a few faded trees, were the only traces these solitaries had
left behind.
A silence of some minutes succeeded, while we descended to the edge of the
canal; and I saw opposite, among the rocks, that solitary cave, which had
so chilled me with its aspect on the preceding night. By the bank we found
one of those rustic boats, which the Egyptians construct of planks of wild
thorn, bound rudely together with bands of papyrus. Placing ourselves in
this boat, and rather impelling than rowing it across, we made our way
through the foul and shallow flood, and landed directly under the site of
the cave.
This dwelling, as I have already mentioned, was situated upon a ledge of
the rock; and, being provided with a sort of window or aperture to admit
the light of heaven, was accounted, I found, more cheerful than the
grottos on the other side of the ravine. But there was a dreariness in the
whole region around, to which light only lent more horror. The dead
whiteness of the rocks, as they stood, like ghosts, in the sunshine;—that
melancholy pool, half lost in the sands;—all gave me the idea of a wasting
world. To dwell in such a place seemed to me like a living death; and when
the Christian, as we entered the cave, said, “Here is to be thy home,”
prepared as I was for the worst, my resolution gave way;—every feeling of
disappointed passion and humbled pride, which had been gathering round my
heart for the last few hours, found a vent at once, and I burst into
tears!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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