The scenery of this part of Yorkshire is composed of two strikingly
opposite types, that of perfectly wild, uncultivated moorlands broken here
and there by wooded dales, and the rich level pasture lands that occupy
the once marshy district of the Vale. The villages, some phases of whose
history we have traced, are with a few exceptions scattered along the
northern margin of the Vale. Lastingham, Rosedale Abbey, Levisham,
Lockton, and Newton are villages of the moor. Edstone, Habton, Normanby,
Kirby Misperton, and Great Barugh are villages of the Vale; but all the
rest occupy an intermediate position on the slopes of the hills. In
general appearance, many of the hamlets are rather similar, the grey stone
walls and red tiles offering less opportunity for individual taste than
the building materials of the southern counties. Despite this difficulty,
however, each village has a distinct character of its own, and in the
cases of Thornton-le-Dale and Brompton, the natural surroundings of hill,
sparkling stream, and tall masses of trees make those two villages unique.
A remarkable effect can sometimes be seen by those who are abroad in the
early morning from the hills overlooking the wide valley; one is at times
able to see across the upper surface of a perfectly level mist through
which the isolated hills rising from the low ground appear as islets in a
lake, and it requires no effort of the imagination to conjure up the
aspect of the valley when the waters of the Derwent were held up by ice in
the remote centuries of the Ice Age. Sometimes in the evening, too, a
pleasing impression may be obtained when the church bells of the villages
are ringing for evening service. At the top of Wrelton Cliff, the sound of
several peals of bells in the neighbouring villages floats upwards across
the broad pastures, and it seems almost as though the whole plain beneath
one's feet were joining in the evening song. Along the deep ravine of
Newton Dale, in all weathers, some of the most varied and richly coloured
pictures may be seen. If one climbs the rough paths that lead up from the
woods and meadows by the railway, the most remarkable aspects of the
precipitous sides are obtained. In a book published in 1836,[1] at the
time of the opening of the railway between Whitby and Pickering, a series
of very delicate steel engravings of the wild scenery of Newton Dale were
given. One of them shows the gorge under the deep gloom of a storm but
relieved with the contrast of a rainbow springing from one side of the
rocky walls. This effect may perhaps seem highly exaggerated, but on one
occasion when I was exploring part of the Dale, between Levisham and Fen
Bogs, I was astonished to see a brilliant rainbow backed by dense masses
of indigo clouds and occupying precisely the position of the one shown in
the old engraving. In such weather as this, when sudden rays of sunlight
fall upon the steep slopes of bracken and heather and on the precipitous
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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