The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Exeter Road
To one who arrived early on the scene, while the Plain remained shrouded
in the grayness of the midsummer night, and the rugged stones of
Stonehenge yet loomed vague and formless, the scene looking down towards
Amesbury was an impressive one. Dimly the ascending white road up to the
stones could be discerned by much straining of tired eyes, and along it
twinkled brightly the lights of approaching vehicles, now dipping down
into a hollow of this miscalled ‘Plain,’ now toiling slowly and
painfully up a corresponding ascent. It is not to be supposed that it
was a reverent crowd assembled here. Reverence is not a characteristic
of the age, nor are cyclists as a rule, or agricultural folks, or
provincials generally, inclined greatly to worship the immeasurably old.
And of such this crowd was chiefly composed. It may very pertinently be
asked, ‘Why, if they don’t reverence the place, do they come here at
all?’ It is a question rather difficult to answer; but probably most
people visit it on this occasion as an excuse for being up all night.
There would seem to be an idea that there is something dashing and
eccentric about such a proceeding which must have its charm for those to
whom archæology, or those eternal and unsolvable questions, ‘Why was
Stonehenge built, and by whom?’ have no interest. There were, for
instance, two boys on the spot who had come over on their bicycles from
Marlborough School, over twenty miles away. Without leave, of course!
They hoped to get back as quietly as they had slipped away out of their
bedroom windows. Had they any archæological enthusiasm? Not a bit of it,
the more especially since it was evident they would have to hurry back
before the sun was due to rise.
[Sidenote: _TRIPPERS AT STONEHENGE_]
There were no fewer than fifteen police at Stonehenge, sent on account
of the disorderly scenes said to have taken place in previous years. But
this crowd was sufficiently quiet. Patiently the throng waited the
rising of the sun upon the horizon, and the coming of the shadow of the
gnomon-stone across the Stone of Sacrifice. The sky lightened, showing
up the tired faces, and transferring the Great Trilithons from the
realms of romance to those of commonplace reality. The larks began to
trill; puce-and purple-coloured clouds floated overhead; the brutal
staccato notes of a banjo strummed to the air of a music-hall song stale
by some three or four seasons; a cyclist struck a match on a sarsen
stone; watches were consulted--and the sun refused to rise to the
occasion. That is to say, for the twelfth time or so consecutively,
according to local accounts, the morning was too cloudy for the sunrise
to be seen. So, tired and disappointed, all trooped back to Amesbury,
the snapshotters disgusted beyond measure, and breakfasted, or refreshed
in various ways, according to individual tastes, at the unholy hour of
half-past four o’clock in the morning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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