The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Exeter Road
along the very backbone of the ridge, exposed to all the rigours of the
elements. To add to the weird aspect of the scene, barrows and tumuli
are scattered about in profusion. We now come to a turning on the left
hand called ‘Cuckold’s Corner,’ why, no legend survives to tell us.
Steeply this lane leads to the downs that roll away boldly to the sea,
coming in little over a mile to ‘chilly Chilcombe,’ a tiny hamlet with a
correspondingly tiny church tucked away among the great rounded
shoulders of the hills, but not so securely sheltered but that the eager
winds find their way to it and render both name and epithet eminently
descriptive. The population of Chilcombe, according to the latest
census, is twenty-four, and the houses six; and it is, accordingly,
quite in order that the church should be regarded as the smallest in
England. There are many of these ‘smallest churches,’ and the question
as to which really deserves the title is not likely to be determined
until an expedition is fitted out to visit all these rival claimants,
and to accurately measure them. Of course the remaining portions of a
church are not eligible for inclusion in this category. Chilcombe,
however, is a complete example. The hamlet was never, in all
probability, more populous than it is now, and the church certainly was
never larger. Originally Norman, it underwent some alterations in the
late Perpendicular period. The measurements are: nave 22 feet in length,
chancel 13 feet. It is a picturesque though unassuming little building,
without a tower, but provided instead with a quaint old stone bell-cote
on the west gable. This gives the old church the appearance of some
ancient ecclesiastical pigeon-house. The bell within is dated 1656. The
very fine and unusual altar-piece of dark walnut wood, with scenes from
the life of Christ, is credibly reported to have been brought here from
one of the ships of the ‘Invincible Armada,’ known to have been wrecked
on the beach at Burton Bradstock, some three miles away.
Returning to the highway at ‘Cuckold’s Corner,’ we come to ‘Traveller’s
Rest,’ now a wayside inn on the left hand, situated on the tremendous
descent which commences a mile beyond Long Bredy turnpike, and goes
practically down into Bridport’s long street; a distance of five miles,
with a fall from 702 feet above the sea, to 253 feet at ‘Traveller’s
Rest,’ two miles farther on, and eventually to sea-level at
[Sidenote: _HILLS ROUND BRIDPORT_]
[Illustration: ‘TRAVELLER’S REST.’]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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