The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Exeter Road
2nd December 1832, while waiting for the mail to Falmouth. He had come
from Oxford that morning by the Oxford-Southampton coach.
‘Here I am,’ he says, writing to his mother, ‘from one till eleven,’
waiting for the down Exeter mail. Think, modern railway traveller, what
would you say were it your lot to wait ten hours, say at Templecombe
Junction, for a connection! Moreover, a bore claiming to be the brother
of an acquaintance claimed to share his room and his society at the
‘White Hart,’ and eventually journeyed to Exeter with him. The future
Cardinal did not like this. He writes: ‘I am practising for the first
time the duty of a traveller, which is sorely against the grain, and
have been talkative and agreeable without end,’ adding (one can almost
imagine the sigh of the retiring scholar!), ‘Now that I have set up for
a man of the world, it is my vocation.’
The latter part of his journey was accomplished at night. Travelling
thus through Devonshire and Cornwall is, he remarks, ‘very striking for
its mysteriousness.’ It was a beautiful night, ‘clear, frosty, and
bright, with a full moon. Mere richness of vegetation is lost by night,
but bold features remain. As I came along, I had the whole train of
pictures so vividly upon my mind that I could have written a most
interesting account of it in the most approved picturesque style of
modern composition, but it has all gone from me now, like a dream.’
‘The night was enlivened by what Herodotus calls a “night engagement”
with a man, called by courtesy a gentleman, on the box. The first act
ended by his calling me a d----d fool. The second by his insisting on
two most hearty shakes of the hand, with the protest that he certainly
did think me very injudicious and ill-timed. I had opened by telling him
he was talking great nonsense to a silly goose of a maidservant stuck
atop of the coach; so I had no reason to complain of his giving me the
retort uncourteous.’
There are corridors in the ‘White Hart’ with up and down twilight
passages, in which the guests of another day lost themselves with
promptitude and despatch. There is also a barbarically coloured
coffee-room, snug and comfortable, which looks as though Washington
Irving could have written an eloquent essay around it; and, more
essential than anything else in days of old, a capacious yard with huge
yawning stables. For Whitchurch is at the cross
[Sidenote: _BRIBERY AND CORRUPTION_]
[Illustration: WHITCHURCH.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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