The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Exeter Road
Of these villages, Little Wallop alone is on the road, and is merely an
offshoot of the others, called into existence by the traffic which
followed this course in the old coaching days. Since railways have left
the roads lonely it has simply slumbered, ‘far from the madding crowd’s
ignoble strife,’ and its inhabitants are presumably happy in their
retirement; although, when days are short and nights are long, and the
stormy winds do blow, it is quite conceivable that there are more
cheerful and warmer situations.
Three miles from here the road leaves Hampshire and enters Wilts, and
two miles onwards from that point, after passing ‘Lobcombe Corner,’ the
junction of the Stockbridge road, is seen that famous old coaching inn,
the ‘Pheasant,’ known much better under its other name, ‘Winterslow
Hut.’
XXIII
[Sidenote: _HAZLITT_]
There are few more desolate and cheerless places in England than the
spot where this old coaching inn stands beside the open road, with the
unenclosed downs stretching away to the far horizon, fold after fold.
Somewhere amid these hills and hollows, but quite hidden, is the village
of West Winterslow, from which the ‘Hut’ obtains its name. The place,
save for the periodical passing of the coaches, was as solitary in old
times as it is now, and its quiet as profound. The very name is
chilling, and as excellently descriptive as it is possible for a name to
be.
When, coming within sight of its isolated roof-tree from the summit of
the hills on either side, the coach-guards used to blow fanfares on
their bugles as a reminder for the ostler to have his fresh teams ready,
the inn and its surrounding stables woke into life, and when they were
gone their several ways, it dozed again. Save that it doubtless looked
more prosperous then, the present appearance of ‘Winterslow Hut’ is
identical with its aspect of sixty years ago. The same horse-pond by the
roadside, the same trees, only older and more decrepit, the same
prehistoric dykes and tumuli on the unchanging downs; it must have been
capable of absorbing the fun and jollity of a fair, and still presenting
its characteristically dour and dreary aspect; but now that, sitting in
the bay window of the parlour that commands the road in either
direction, you may watch the highway by the half-hour and see no
traveller, the emptiness is appalling.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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